16
Wood Turning / Re: P&N SUPA Gouge - how to shape and sharpen
« on: June 20, 2010, 02:16:12 am »
Yep. But the walls at the flute top are not that thick so I wouldn't put too much of a swept back grind on it.
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17
General Tormek Questions / 3 cheers for Jeff!
« on: April 25, 2010, 04:16:38 am »
In my experience no-one else comes within a country mile of the support Jeff gives us users on this forum.
Take a bow Jeff!
I really appreciate the prompt and no BS advice you give us.
Take a bow Jeff!
I really appreciate the prompt and no BS advice you give us.
18
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Flattening plane blade backs
« on: April 10, 2010, 10:21:40 pm »
Thanks for the tips Jeff.
Will try the 'creeping up' method when I'm fit again; recovering from a broken wrist ATM.
Will try the 'creeping up' method when I'm fit again; recovering from a broken wrist ATM.
19
Hand Tool Woodworking / Flattening plane blade backs
« on: April 10, 2010, 07:06:28 am »
Recently I acquired 3 wooden Mujingfang planes - a real bargain in the world of new planes.
Each has a 1 3/4" HSS blade, with coarse machining marks on the back. A sharp edge requires both bevel and back to be polished.
If I had a dime for every minute spent lapping blade backs on stones I'd be a millionaire, and buying premium planes ;-}
I read somewhere that this could be done on the side of the Tormek. And practised with two chisel backs. This was a bit hairy as landing them flat with the wheel turning takes some skill.
My son dropped over a few days ago and I enlisted him to control the on/off switch. That allowed me to register the backs properly with the wheel stopped. Side on the mounting bar and a finger on each corner of the blade pushing it against the wheel side.
Wow! It took about a minute to get the machining marks out and leave something approaching a polished finish. Magic. Two blades done in short order.
Seeing that there was a good bit of steel grit in the wheel sides, I hit them with the coarse grading stone.
That dropped the cutting power big time when it was time for the 3rd. In fact after 2 minutes there was still a lot of steel to be removed.
That sent me to read through posts on this forum and it seems that what may be required is to press hard with the corner of the grading stone.
Sound right?
I can see that some care will be needed to apply it flat and square to the wheel face.
Each has a 1 3/4" HSS blade, with coarse machining marks on the back. A sharp edge requires both bevel and back to be polished.
If I had a dime for every minute spent lapping blade backs on stones I'd be a millionaire, and buying premium planes ;-}
I read somewhere that this could be done on the side of the Tormek. And practised with two chisel backs. This was a bit hairy as landing them flat with the wheel turning takes some skill.
My son dropped over a few days ago and I enlisted him to control the on/off switch. That allowed me to register the backs properly with the wheel stopped. Side on the mounting bar and a finger on each corner of the blade pushing it against the wheel side.
Wow! It took about a minute to get the machining marks out and leave something approaching a polished finish. Magic. Two blades done in short order.
Seeing that there was a good bit of steel grit in the wheel sides, I hit them with the coarse grading stone.
That dropped the cutting power big time when it was time for the 3rd. In fact after 2 minutes there was still a lot of steel to be removed.
That sent me to read through posts on this forum and it seems that what may be required is to press hard with the corner of the grading stone.
Sound right?
I can see that some care will be needed to apply it flat and square to the wheel face.
20
Wood Turning / Re: Conditioning and charging the honing wheel?
« on: April 02, 2010, 09:24:22 pm »
Will do; thanks.
21
Wood Turning / Conditioning and charging the honing wheel?
« on: April 02, 2010, 04:55:57 am »
Hi Jeff!
The manual says to condition the wheel with light machine oil, if memory serves, and then charge the surface with the compound.
I've done this. The leather soaked up a good deal of oil.
I assume the point is to get a thick slurry happening so that the oil and compound together soak into the leather.
What's happening when I hone is that the compound balls up and drops off. There's little blackening of the strop that would indicate metal coming off.
I gave the two profiled leather wheels the same treatment, and trying to hone out the milling marks on a turning gouge flute soon got the tell-tale blackening of the surface.
So what am I doing wrong with the flat edge wheel? Too little oil? Oil's too thick?
Would appreciate your advice.
Best wishes for Easter,
Ern
The manual says to condition the wheel with light machine oil, if memory serves, and then charge the surface with the compound.
I've done this. The leather soaked up a good deal of oil.
I assume the point is to get a thick slurry happening so that the oil and compound together soak into the leather.
What's happening when I hone is that the compound balls up and drops off. There's little blackening of the strop that would indicate metal coming off.
I gave the two profiled leather wheels the same treatment, and trying to hone out the milling marks on a turning gouge flute soon got the tell-tale blackening of the surface.
So what am I doing wrong with the flat edge wheel? Too little oil? Oil's too thick?
Would appreciate your advice.
Best wishes for Easter,
Ern
22
Wood Turning / Re: What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 15, 2010, 04:49:54 am »
Clever!
So a bit of pressure wouldn't go astray to break down the 3 micron particles.
So a bit of pressure wouldn't go astray to break down the 3 micron particles.
23
Wood Turning / Re: Large gouge
« on: February 15, 2010, 03:19:18 am »
Try the platform freehand for the scraper JSB, or if you have a steady hand, just the rod support.
Opinions vary but I wld advise you to lap any burr off the top of the scraper before the first sharpening. A dry grinder will have left a rough saw-tooth edge.
Re the shave, again the platform.
In both cases, get the platform as close to the wheel as you can.
Let us know how you go.
Opinions vary but I wld advise you to lap any burr off the top of the scraper before the first sharpening. A dry grinder will have left a rough saw-tooth edge.
Re the shave, again the platform.
In both cases, get the platform as close to the wheel as you can.
Let us know how you go.
24
Wood Turning / Re: What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 15, 2010, 03:13:21 am »
Jeff, can I ask what the Tormek compound particle size in microns is?
(Yep, now definitely getting obsessive
)
(Yep, now definitely getting obsessive
)
25
Wood Turning / Re: What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:30:58 am »
And what's that compound made of Aunsell?
26
Wood Turning / Re: What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 03, 2010, 08:13:13 pm »
Thanks Jeff.
And no, I'm not that obsessive
And no, I'm not that obsessive
27
Wood Turning / Re: What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 03, 2010, 06:05:06 am »
Ah, thanks Jeff. Good to know.
Excellent info, as always
PS, does it work efficiently on the Tormek? Any mileage in fitting the leather wheel to the lathe eg.?
Excellent info, as always
PS, does it work efficiently on the Tormek? Any mileage in fitting the leather wheel to the lathe eg.?
28
Wood Turning / What honing compound for HSS turning tools?
« on: February 03, 2010, 05:36:39 am »
Don't know what the T yellow tube is full of.
Note that in Leonard Lee's book on sharpening he recommends Al. Ox. for HSS steel.
I'm thinking of getting the profiled leather wheel less for burr removal and more for polishing out the machining marks left in some gouges.
Any comments?
Note that in Leonard Lee's book on sharpening he recommends Al. Ox. for HSS steel.
I'm thinking of getting the profiled leather wheel less for burr removal and more for polishing out the machining marks left in some gouges.
Any comments?
29
General Tormek Questions / Re: Short platform tool rest?
« on: January 09, 2010, 09:13:02 pm »
Also consider a bit of packing on the platform, rectangular, parallel to the wheel face, maybe 1" deep, fixed with spring clamps. This allows the handle to clear and freehand control of the tool edge.
30
General Tormek Questions / Re: glazing questions
« on: January 09, 2010, 09:06:18 pm »
I've been advised that from new the wheel is glazed and should be trued so that it cuts properly.
Any comment Jeff?
Any comment Jeff?