Recent Posts

1

Wood Turning / Skew chisel grinding.....was a grind!

« Last post by Rob on Yesterday at 08:27:20 pm »

Phew.....decided it was time to do my favourite skew chisel today.  Despite using the blackstone as well....a good hour passed and a lot of finger pressure.  I ended up trueing the wheel four times to get it unglazed enough to really move metal.  (I had it vertically mounted for max steel removal too)

No matter how hard I regraded the stone with the grader, it glazed in seconds once you put the skew back on.  It was painstaking to be honest.  In fairness, this was one of Dad's ancient chisels that was completely knackered so it was a total regrind for both bevels.

But....the Tormek.....sharpening...brilliant....shaping....its a real bellyache for anything hard and wide. After this I'm dreading doing the planar blades again!  Despite having invested in the blackstone.  I honestly cant say Im noticing anything different about its cutting ability.  Depressed.

2

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: New Jig for Various Blades

« Last post by Rob on May 23, 2013, 09:20:30 am »

Looks good Robin....and if it catalysed a drop of Malt.....well....even better 

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Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: New Jig for Various Blades

« Last post by kb0rvo on May 23, 2013, 06:06:08 am »

Glad it worked well for you Robin.

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Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: New Jig for Various Blades

« Last post by RobinW on May 22, 2013, 09:16:56 pm »

I have now used the new jig on the spokeshave blade as illustrated in the second photo posted earlier and it went very well.

The blade was lined up in the jig by eyeball. I haven't filed the sides of the jig, or checked the front edge and sides for perpendicularity - I just used it straight from the bandsaw! The acrylic sheet did bow a little over the blade when clamped tight by the screws along each side. I put the jig into the SE76 (as per the photograph) and used the marker pen trick to show me how things went. I didn't do any re-aligning of the blade in the jig, or the jig in the SE76 and it came out bang on. (If only all the other jobs went like that!). I also used the jig to hand hold the blade whilst I flattened the back briefly on the side of the wheel, then used waterstones and polished up by hand holding on the leather wheel. The bevel I honed up on the leather wheel.

Mounted in the spokeshave (it's very old, made by Preston) I tried it out on some mahogany and it went like a dream. So in recent weeks I have gone from zero confidence and ability with a spokeshave to having 5 different types all very sharp, tuned up and confident that I can now use then efficiently. What a difference it makes when you can sharpen them up to a high degree. I also have an extra jig which can hold a wide variety of flat blades. My finger joints also appreciate that it works well. Great result so celebrated with a drop of malt whisky.

5

Wood Turning / Re: Michelsen grind?

« Last post by turnedbykyle on May 20, 2013, 06:13:39 am »

That is what I was thinking, but he uses a very short (45?) side angle and grinds away the bulk so the gouge can cut. If I just move the collar, then I'd just get a short bevel which is sort of what he's doing. Other than changing my basic angle from about 65 to his 45 or so...... I bid an old used gouge from e-bay, I'll start experimenting with the old gouge on this. Don't want to grind up a good gouge for no reason.

Thanks for the reply!

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General Tormek Questions / Re: Small knife jig per Tormek User Group

« Last post by kb0rvo on May 18, 2013, 03:49:43 am »

Don,

Did you get a 1/4 inch paper wheel? If so, how is it working for you?

7

Wood Turning / Re: Michelsen grind?

« Last post by Jeff Farris on May 18, 2013, 03:00:11 am »

Catch-proof? No. But, the grind is easily replicated on the Tormek. That's why there's a collar at the back of the pivot arm. Loosen that collar, pull it back so that the jig can slide forward, now hold it back to grind the primary bevel, then slide it forward to cut the secondary bevel.

If you get the edge in contact with the stock without the bevel riding, you'll get a catch, whether the bevel is short or long.

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Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Another Spokeshave Challenge

« Last post by RobinW on May 17, 2013, 11:32:09 pm »

Herman - If you look at the post I have just done concerning a new jig for various blades, I had a quick look at taking that jig and modifying that for the blade in this old wooden spokeshave.

What I intend doing is to cut a rectangular shape out of the front edge, so making a jig which is U shaped at the front and the sides of the U match the tangs of the blade. The screws would then be adjacent to the tangs of the blade so clamping it.

Then swing the whole thing to get the blade face at the right angle for grinding.

This jig would slide over your HK50 and the jig allows a good grip of the blade.

It's now on the agenda. However I would like to get hold of another blade to practise with, as taking the blades in and out of the wooden spokeshave causes the holes on the spokeshave to become elongated and worn, and they are difficult to repair. It's in the pipeline.

9

Hand Tool Woodworking / New Jig for Various Blades

« Last post by RobinW on May 17, 2013, 11:22:12 pm »

Under the post 'Spokeshave Challenge' I came up with an additional plate for the SVM45 so that it could hold small spokeshave blades and also use the SE76 so that better control and square alignment can be achieved.

However when I still had another two problems. Another spokeshave blade would not fit into the SVM45 (or my modified version) due to the small lugs between the faces of the jig. Another blade I have a problem sharpening is one from a Veritas Scraper plane. This blade is 73mm (2 7/8") wide and 100mm (4")  from front to back. It has a tapered shape at the back end. It has to sharpened at 45 degree. Whilst this can be achieved by clamping it in the SE76, it does not use the registration face of the SE76 due to the shape, and has to extend well out in order to make the 45 degree bevel..

So tonight's effort is shown below where I have the basis of a jig which will cope with a wide range of blades and fits into the SE76. I have made this from acrylic sheet (which is pretty strong as the company I got it from uses it as protection over stained glass windows).

I have a top and bottom plate as shown in the first photo which also shows both the blades (so will cover a wide range in between).



I have used a line of screws and nuts down each side to that the plates will not cockle and pressure can be applied over the depth of the blade.

The following photo shows the spokeshave blade set up for 25 degree bevel and grinding towards the edge.



The next two photos show the scraper plane blade set for 45 degree bevel and grinding away from the edge.





Countersunk screws were used and as the screw heads do not protrude below the bottom face of the plate this could be used with Herman's HK50 or the Tormek SVD110. The red line was applied so that I could eyeball the blade alignment.

It was too late to try it in anger, that's the weekend's job. I think it is strong enough to use without flexing being an issue. It would benefit from a grid or some blade alignment marks so that registration with the jig edge and subsequently into the SE76 all correspond. Using the marker pen method on the bevel would soon show up the alignment. The scraper plane blade is a big thing, so if you had smaller blades then you would make your jig somewhat smaller than this one. However I can cover all sizes now and my fingers will appreciate that!

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Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Another Spokeshave Challenge

« Last post by RobinW on May 17, 2013, 10:47:35 pm »

I have an idea how to do this. It us similar to what I am about to post under another new jig for various blades, only it will use a U shape at the end which will clamp onto the tangs. However it is pretty late here so I'm in for the night.