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1
According to the manual, the recommend minimum diameter is 180mm.
The diameter of a new stone is 250mm.
So the usable reduction in diameter of a new stone is 250-180=70mm.
A stone with a diameter of 233mm can still be reduced by 233-180=53mm.
The grinding area is proportional to the circumference of the stone.
That area is reduced to  (53/70)^2=0,57 times the original.
So the remaining 'value' of the used stone of 233mm is 57% of a new stone.
2
A very recent post noted a wheel diameter of 233 mm.  While that wheel still has much usable life, the first quarter to third of usefulness has been already ground away. 

I reckon it's only about 13%.

(233/250)2 = 87% remaining.

Edit: Oops! That calculation assumes the grindstone can be used until the diameter is zero! Not very realistic. I wonder what the minimum usable diameter is.
3
I will start trying to drill out the shaft without enlarging the hole unless anyone has other suggestions.

I think that's the best strategy. Make sure the grindstone is well supported as it's likely to break near the center where it's been weakened by rust and penetrating oil.

Quote
BTW, the stone is now 223 mm diameter. I think it's still worth trying to save it, don't you?

Very much so, yes. Those grindstones are very expensive. Once you get it mounted up in a new stainless steel main shaft and trued it should give you years of service.
4
The concept of value arises from time to time on this forum. Often it involved the T7 vs the T3 (or now T4). Sometimes it involves new vs used.

How valuable is the Tormek 10 year warranty? I have stated before that the Tormek doesn't seem to have much to go wrong.  I still believe that. However, occasionally on this forum we have had members with grinding wheels replaced by Tormek.  Whether these wheels were really defective or whether Tormek was just going the extra mile for the customer is unknown to me.  A replacement grinding wheel is $168.

Occasionally we have a post with a defective motor capacitor.

While defective components seem rare, they do exist.

A very recent post noted a wheel diameter of 233 mm.  While that wheel still has much usable life, the first quarter to third of usefulness has been already ground away.  It's like a used car having thirty thousand miles on the odometer.  Lots of life left, but the best thirty thousand miles already used. How much would you pay for such a used wheel? If $168 is the new price for 250mm, anything north of $100 doesn't seem like such a hot deal.

I can see why Tormek insists the original sales receipt is in hand before honoring a transferred warranty.  Tormeks are occasionally stolen.  Mine was.  Tormek emailed me the serial number for the police report.  Tormek knows my unit was stolen.  Should someone submit a warranty claim on my stolen unit, I can see why Tormek or any company would not want to be in the middle of such a problem.

Knowing that the warranty transfer requires the original bill of sale, if such documentation is not available, the unit for sale is worth less.  With no warranty, the buyer must assume the risk and liability of repair.
Unfortunately, there are many who do not realize this and will bid up the price to an unrealistic level. This happens often on online auctions.

The Tormek is a long term investment.  Consider the value of having the latest innovations built into a new model.  This includes having a stainless steel shaft, a full size wheel and a ten year warranty.

I could be tempted by a used second Tormek unit for my SB or SG wheel.  However, it would have to be priced very low, lower than an uninformed buyer might pay. I'm not holding my breath.

Ken
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General Tormek Questions / Re: Rusted Shafts
« Last post by Herman Trivilino on Yesterday at 09:11:06 pm »
Good points, Ken. I would add a couple of things.

2) Jeff Farris has posted that when he was traveling around the country demonstrating the Tormek, he routinely removed the grinding wheels from his demo units before traveling. I don't recall Jeff ever having a rusted shaft.  Removing the wheel after each day's sharpening seems like overkill.  Removing the wheel periodically and making sure the shaft is clean seems prudent.

Take that opportunity to clean and lube the nylon bearings.

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If the wheel is already rusted to the shaft, proceed with Stig's advised slow and careful WD 40 routine.
[/quote]

Try to remove the main shaft while it's still attached to the grindstone. When I broke my grindstone I was trying to remove it from the main shaft while the main shaft was still in place. A chemical reaction occurs with the steel of the main shaft and the grindstone, and they meld together into a rusty crust, wrapping around the nylon bearings and trapping the main shaft in place.

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In this case, I don't think it is so much a case about worried about the warranty, but the price someone is asking, used, without, so close to new price, with warranty.  It is about Value. (from receiving the posts from that forum)
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General Tormek Questions / Re: honing leather replacement?
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 02:51:06 pm »
New lA-220 leather honing wheel is $69.  Money well spent.

Ken
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General Tormek Questions / Re: Is the warranty transferable to a new owner?
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 02:48:49 pm »
I would not let the lack of a warranty scare anyone away from a Tormek.  Of course, having a warranty is the ideal situation.  However, the Tormek is a very hearty and simple machine.  There is not much to go wrong, especially with reasonable care in use. Even a new shaft costs only $66 and needing one is and preventable.

I would put the Tormek in the same category as my my grandfather's 1931 Delta table saw.  To the best of my knowledge, it was only back in the repair shop once, and that was for only preventative mtce.

Ken
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General Tormek Questions / Re: honing leather replacement?
« Last post by 3253535 on Yesterday at 02:43:46 pm »
Thanks.  Those comments were helpful.
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General Tormek Questions / Rusted Shafts
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 02:42:21 pm »
The problem of a shaft rusted onto the grinding wheel comes up from time to time. In most cases, this seems to be a preventable problem.

For the last several years, new Tormek units have shipped with stainless steel shafts. My first Tormek came with a stainless pre EZYLock shaft. At this point, any rusted shaft problems already have at least several years' head start.

I suggest a several point program to eliminate this problem:

1) Make it part of your sharpening routine to dump the dirty water when through sharpening. I suspect most of the rust problem originates while the Tormek is NOT being used. 

2) Jeff Farris has posted that when he was traveling around the country demonstrating the Tormek, he routinely removed the grinding wheels from his demo units before traveling. I don't recall Jeff ever having a rusted shaft.  Removing the wheel after each day's sharpening seems like overkill.  Removing the wheel periodically and making sure the shaft is clean seems prudent.

3) For those of us who start with a Tormek which has seen previous service, I suggest removing the stone and cleaning/lubing the shaft should be done before using your Tormek, or at the very least, very soon. This procedure is covered in the handbook. A stick on address label on the housing is a good way to record the service dates, just like the door stickers for auto oil changes.

If the wheel is already rusted to the shaft, proceed with Stig's advised slow and careful WD 40 routine. Be very patient.  A new replacement wheel currently costs $184.  If you are lucky and can remove the rusted shaft, consider a replacement/upgrade EZYLock shaft.  The cost is $66, about a third of the cost of a new wheel.  Not only are the new shafts stainless, they are a real improvement.

If removing the wheel and cleaning/lubing your Tormek seems like a lot of work, estimate the value of your time. If you time is more valuable than the cost of a new shaft and wheel, have your butler return your Tormek to a repair station.  If, like the rest of us, the cost of a replacement shaft and wheel seems expensive, your time will be well spent.

Moderator: I would like to see a sticky of this problem placed at the top of this forum. My idea for the chisel question became too large and clumsy to be very useful.  Top stickies should be short and direct.  Comments and suggestions should be separate but related new topics.

Ken
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