« Last post by Ken S on April 19, 2014, 11:32:19 am »
I found the post numbers by clicking onto my name and selecting "show posts".
I did this only after having no luck with the site search function. (I have not had much luck with the site search function.)
I am no computer genius, however, the setup of the numbering system seems flawed. Individual post number one is the most recent post. That means by now my post #854 is probably #856. For someone with half a dozen posts, that's not a problem. With people like Jeff Farris, Herman, Rob, or me, with plus or minus a thousand posts each, that's very clumsy.
Just reversing the numbering system to first (oldest) post being #1 would improve the situation greatly.
I propose a better solution. Instead of quoting post numbers, the poster would make life easier for all of us by copy pasting the post or part of the post. The poster would need to note who is being quoted and place quotation marks. Personally, I have found that easier than using the site's quote feature. Or, for those who prefer to use the quote feature, just use it. The point is let's provide the reader with the answer rather than a roadmap of how to hopefully reach the answer.
I normally wouldn't post this much, but here is the copy paste of those three posts. By the way, after bisecting my torlock jig, I realized I did it wrong, Jeff Farris made an excellent suggestion. If you are interested, I will share that experience in another post.
Here is the copy paste:
General Tormek Questions / Re: Free hand sharpening
« on: January 28, 2011, 11:31:38 am »
The ideal solution would be to visit your local authorized Tormek dealer and purchase an SVM-15 Small Knife Sharpening Jig. Unfortunately, that won't work. Tormek doesn't make such a jig. So, here's my 'Plan B":
Start with an SVD-110 Tool Rest. You may already have one. If not, they are inexpensive and versatile.
For clarity, I will refer to the SVD-110 as the "Tormek platform". The part you make will be the "blade platform".
I suggest you start by making a mock up. Mine was just three layers of cardboard cut to 2" x 8" and a couple clothespins. Quarter inch plywood or Masonite would be ideal. Beveling the underside of the mockup piece will let you get closer to the wheel. I just staggered the cardboard layers.
Set up your Tormek with the universal support bar in the horizontal position (wheel revolving away from the blade). Install the Tool Rest jig. Place the mockup (henceforth referred to as the blade platform) on the tormek platform. For starters, place it lining up with the left edge of the Tormek platform and protruding about two inches beyond (toward the stone). Secure with the clothespins. Set with the angle jig to 20 degrees. Follow the general Tormek safety practice of allowing 2mm (3/32") clearance between the jig and the grinding wheel.
I used my pocket Swiss Army knife with the prototype. The small blade rests on the blade platform. DO NOT TURN ON THE POWER. With the blade resting on the blade platform, swing it to follow the arc of the edge. Notice the two inch dimension matches the width of the grinding stone. This lets you position both sides of the blade without moving the jig.
Using the mockup prototype will let you see how much platform protrusion you want. YOu want it short enough to be rigid and long enough to swing the blade arc. Making the mockup requires very little time and no cost. It will speed the end result.
Once you have decided to proceed, you will probably want to add some shoulders on the bottom side of the blade platform to register against (rest against) the Tormek platform. This will keep the platform from shifting. I would consider an ideal final shape to be wide enough to allow shoulders on both sides of the Tormek platform, with the protrusion notched to two inches (to match the width of the wheel). I would place a shoulder under the front edge for the shortest protrusion you wish. The back shoulder could either be placed for this position or moved back to allow a longer protrusion when needed.
Vise grip makes a nice small plier type of clamp which allows for the back of the Tormek platform not being parallel. This clamp can be pre adjusted and popped on and off as needed. A regular C clamp ("G cramp" for those of you who still speak English) would do fine.
I use Baltic Birch Ply for lots of stuff. Unless you use metal, the water from the wheel will create a harsh environment for your jig. Paint it, or otherwise seal it. It probably won't last "forever", but should give good service.
This simple jig will not give the ease of use the regular Tormek knife jigs do. It should give you more control over the angle of the bevel. You must lay the blade flat on the platform; the jig does not actually hold the knife.
I would suggest starting very gingerly with the stone fully graded fine, or, as mentioned by Gary, on the leather honing wheel if the knife is not very dull. The coarse stone can be used to rapidly create "nano knives" which may not please your customers.
I hope this helps.
General Tormek Questions / Re: switching between wheels
« on: February 12, 2011, 04:36:00 pm »
I don't do movies. However, the movies on this website can help you. Watch the movie associated with the TTS-100. It will show you how to set the distance from the stone to the universal support bar using the TTS-100. (I suggest using the thirty degree setting.)
With the distance set, switch to the WM-200 setter. Watch the film on the site associated with this jig. Set the protrusion of the blade for the angle you want. Do not change the distance of the bar; change the length of the protrusion to achieve the angle you want.
The back of the TTS-100 has three protrusion lengths for turning tools. One of these may happen to fit the length you want for your blade. If so, use it and note it for future reference. If not, you may make a sharpie line on one of the lengths to correspond with the length you want. Making a kine of a piece of cardboard or plywood would also work. Be sure to label it.
When you switch wheels, just set the new wheel to the same TTS-100 setting as the original wheel. The two point design of the TTS-100 automatically calibrates the universal support bar to the same angle.
The same method works with the leather honing wheel.
General Tormek Questions / switching between wheels
« on: February 12, 2011, 12:17:53 pm »
In the Woodworking post ("a note to Steve", Jeff made this comment regarding changing the grinding wheel from the general wheel to the 4000 grit wheel:
"If the diameters are different (and they are) you will have to readjust the Universal Support height, but there's no reason to make any adjustments to the jig."
I have been investigating the possibility of using the TTS-100 for setting the height of the universal support bar when sharpening chisels and planes. Its two point design automatically self corrects for wheel diameter differences. When using just one wheel, this seemed overkill. However, it might simplify switching back and forth between different grit (and diameter) wheels, and also with the honing wheel.
Here is how the procedure works"
1) Using the TTS=100, set the universal support bar to the lower setting (the thirty degree setting).
2) Set the length of the tool projection from the SE-76 to the correct angle, using either the Angle Master or black marker. Note this length and make a gage block or cardboard marker.
3) After switching grinding wheels, set the new wheel with the TTS-100 just as you set the first wheel. The two point alignment system should automatically realign the tool at the original projection length.