Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re: Circular cutting blades
« Last post by grepper on Today at 03:56:07 pm »
Or just the reverse of Herman’s idea:  If you can remove the wheel and mount it in a hand drill, you could just press the wheel against a stationary abrasive.  You might even be able to press it against the Tormek grindstone.
2
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re: Circular cutting blades
« Last post by SharpenADullWitt on Today at 03:27:19 pm »
The style pizza cutter I have used, looks more like a machete (friends restaurant), so I don't have a round one to try.  That said the SVD-185 has a jig with it for smaller turning cutters and I am wondering if that could be used with larger wheels like the pizza wheel? (certainly not as large/awkward or dangerous as the slicer blade from another thread)
If not, while spacing would have to be figured out (is the bar long enough to get back far enough) you could use a dowel with a screw in the end, to hold the blade.
3
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re: Circular cutting blades
« Last post by Rob on Today at 08:26:41 am »
That's a very creative approach and I'm certain it would work.  If it were in a lathe (screwed through the centre hole onto a backing board held in chuck jaws for example) you would have the advantage of the toolrest which is very manoeuvrable to fix the position of whatever abrasive you chose to use.

Nice one Herman.
4
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re: Circular cutting blades
« Last post by Herman Trivilino on Today at 03:08:37 am »
Does anyone have or know of a jig for sharpening circular cutting blades like the ones in a pizza cutter, my wife has a cutter for material (fabric) and i would like to sharpen it.

If you can remove the wheel from its handle you could mount it in a drill press, lathe, or even a drill clamped in a vise.  Then while it's turning, touch it with a small stone or other abrasive. Finish with a dab of honing compound on a scrap piece of leather.

I have not tried this, but it seems to me it would work.
5
General Tormek Questions / Re: lock and load
« Last post by Titian on Yesterday at 10:10:38 pm »

I've said this before, and Jeff has disagreed, but at 40X magnification I see scratches left on the bevel by the SG that do not get removed by the honing wheel. What I see at that magnification is that the surface between the scratches gets polished, but the scratches remain.


I'm inclined to agree with you Herman, while I don't have a Tormek machine, my current setup utilises a 1000 grit water stone and Tormek compound. I find that I have to use a fresh amount of the paste each time if I want to remove the scratches, which takes a bit of time and can be messy so I add a little and often. Even without a magnifier I can still see the old compound only polishes the scratches, more importantly it doesn't give a clean cut on my carving chisels.

So currently I have an intermediate step where I hone with some green wax from another sharpening system and this gives myself better, faster results then finish off with the Tormek compound. I see the Tormek honing paste a bit like their stone, it's a dual grit medium. Starting off at 3 microns (about 4000 grit I guess) but breaking down to 1 micro as I understand.

Therefore I would be interested in a specific honing wheel with single grit size, it's just the price makes me consider other options.
6
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re: Circular cutting blades
« Last post by grepper on Yesterday at 06:31:28 pm »
I have sharpened pizza cutters with good enough results.

You might be able to use the small knife jig if you can clamp the thing close to the wheel.  Another idea is to just rest the handle of the cutter on the control bar.

Spin the wheel by hand while it’s in contact with the grindstone.  Always keep it moving when it’s in contact with the grindstone or you will get flat spots. 

You can probably do with with a little experimentation.
7
Planer Blade Sharpening / Circular cutting blades
« Last post by A1welderman on Yesterday at 11:44:56 am »
Does anyone have or know of a jig for sharpening circular cutting blades like the ones in a pizza cutter, my wife has a cutter for material (fabric) and i would like to sharpen it.

Cheers A1welderman.
8
General Tormek Questions / Re: lock and load
« Last post by SharpenADullWitt on Yesterday at 04:52:55 am »
Have one friend that owns a restaurant.  Neighbor, retired chef (Austrian), and a friend who is Japanese and a chef.  In these cases, I can see them liking the SJ stone, for constant touch up's of their knives.  I think there are times when it would be good, but for an average person, it would just be a want, not need.
9
General Tormek Questions / Re: lock and load
« Last post by jeffs55 on Yesterday at 04:35:14 am »
I have used the 4000 grit Japanese stone but cannot remember the maker. I find it to be a novelty and not worth the money. Nothing wrong with it, it is simply unnecessary. It will make the edge look like a mirror if that is important to you. No stropping is needed either.
10
General Tormek Questions / Re: lock and load
« Last post by Herman Trivilino on Yesterday at 03:37:17 am »
Apart from hairdressing salon scissors and maybe the odd very fine carving tool, I cant imagine what anyone needs the Jap stone for???  Grinding wheel snobbery probably!

I've said this before, and Jeff has disagreed, but at 40X magnification I see scratches left on the bevel by the SG that do not get removed by the honing wheel. What I see at that magnification is that the surface between the scratches gets polished, but the scratches remain.

Now, it may be that the Jap stone will not leave these scratches, or it could be that if I were more skilled at finely grading the SG and honing those scratches could be removed.

I do not think this is snobbery. There's utility to having that razor-sharp edge. It can actually make a difference between accomplishing a task and butchering it up.
 
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10