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Wood Turning / Re: Dry grinder - silicon carbide or aluminum oxide wheel?
« Last post by Rob on Yesterday at 12:53:43 pm »
Rob, I see a MultiTool in your future.

In fact Herman I have already invested in a Linisher style sharpening tool which given its competitive nature I won't mention here.  I don't find dry grinders are that great at removing a lot of steel, cool enough.  Whereas a belt system is extremely fast, very controllable and nothing like as "hot" so it wins hands down for me.  I use it for HSS turning tools when I want to experiment with different grinds and need to remove a lot of metal.  I also use it for skews and parting tools.  Skews are also a major pain on the Tormek.

I think I might even get shot of my dry grinder.  The only thing I use it for now is round nose scrapers and that's because the Torlok is permanently setup on the BGM-100 with that angle set so its very easy to just keep it locked on that setting.
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General Tormek Questions / Re: Angle master wear
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 11:04:53 am »
Machinists use "Jo blocks" (also called "Swede Blocks" or "hoke blocks").  These are hardened small steel blocks ground and polished to very precise limits.  They are manufactured to tolerances within millionths of an inch, and used to regularly used for setups to measure ten thousandths of an inch.  They are also very expensive.

To preserve the integrity of the set, each set comes with a pair of wear blocks.  The wear blocks are used on the outside of a stack of blocks and take any wear of contacting rougher surfaces.  The theory is it is less expensive to limit the wear to two easily replacable, standard size blocks.

With the plastic measuring surface of the anglemaster, carefully inserting a piece of paper between the plastic piece and the wheel should allow the paper to become the "wear block".

For sharpening different size knives, I think Ton's system is a major step forward.

Ken
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Travis,

Welcome to the forum.  Excellent and interesting post.

Please continue posting.

Ken
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General Tormek Questions / Re: Paper cutter blades
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 10:50:56 am »
Welcome, James.

We can always use an "old school machinist" on this forum.  I have not sharpened a paper cutter cutter blade with my Tormek, however, I am not convinced that it cannot be done.

I would start with the flat platform jig.  I believe it is called the Torlock (after the patented locking mechanism).  I have two of them.  One I cut in half as a prototype for a small knife sharpening jig.  (The narrower profile allowed the width to match the width of the stone so that small blades could be sharpened all the way up to the heel.) I have since found a better way to do this (a suggestion from Jeff Farris).

You might find it helpful to modify the platform by adding a pin or two.  The blade would rest against the pin(s) for more control.  Woodworking router tables (and shapers) use these starting pins to help the operator approach the cutter with good control.

My paper cutter is not yet unpacked from moving, so I am seeing this with my mind's eye instead of in my fingers.  I'm not sure if the platform should be set rising of declining against the stone.  A moment's thought holding it next to your Tormek will decide it for you.  Try to keep the flat face of the blade against the platform.

I would use something soft for the pin(s)-- brass or even wood.  Something like a brass version of machinist's buttons for set up would fit the bill.  They could be removed to allow the platform to be used for other purposes.

I hope this helps.  Good luck and do keep us posted.

Ken
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Wood Turning / Re: Dry grinder - silicon carbide or aluminum oxide wheel?
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 10:20:05 am »
Tom,

Welcome to the forum.  You didn't happen to mention if the turning tools with your venerable Craftsman lathe are of the same vintage.  I inherited my grandfather's 1930s vintage Sears lathe and turning tools. The tools are carbon steel. If I needed to reshape any of them I would do so with the slower but cooler Tormek. 

Of course, modern high speed steel and powder tools are much more forgiving with overheating.

Like Rob, I use a forty grit wheel on one side of my forty year old (and still going strong) Craftsman sex inch dry grinder.  I use a Norton 3X wheel.  It cuts quickly and leaves a surprisingly smooth edge.  The other wheel is a  Norton friable 80grit "white wheel".  I have not used it since getting a Tormek, although I was pleased with it up to then.

With either grinder it is important to keep the wheels dressed regularly.  Do a google on "Moskowitz grinding" for an excellent online article about dry grinding.

Keep posting.

Ken
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Herman: Interestingly enough, we often keep the stone at the coarser setting rather than fine. It's not the ideal method, but we find that deburring and polishing on the strop after working the 220 grit actually still produces a strong, refined edge. We often deburr with a ceramic steel (or Spyderco Sharpmaker) between the 220 and the polishing wheel which produces even better results.

The rough edge left by the coarser grit gives the knife a "bite".  Some claim it makes it easier to do things like slice tomatoes.  Also, the grindstone leaves a hollow grind, so the very edge of the knife mates up nicely against the leather wheel.
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Hi guys,

Herman: Interestingly enough, we often keep the stone at the coarser setting rather than fine. It's not the ideal method, but we find that deburring and polishing on the strop after working the 220 grit actually still produces a strong, refined edge. We often deburr with a ceramic steel (or Spyderco Sharpmaker) between the 220 and the polishing wheel which produces even better results.

The time spent continuously grading between coarse and fine would be time (and thus cost) prohibitive, so we have looked for the most efficient way to produce the best edge.

So, to answer your question, I have insufficient data to give you an answer either way. I will say that truing does not seem to take any longer than with the original grindstone.

Jeff: Care is taken to measure and adjust the edge angle on either side of thicker knives. This was a concern at the beginning, but with a keen eye, we've been able to reduce the effects of uneven clamping. Obviously, many of us here on the forum would still pick up subtle inconsistencies in an instant, but you also have to remember that those who pick up those inconsistencies are also the ones who would probably be doing their own knife sharpening in the first place. :)

Our goal is still to produce the best possible edge within a reasonable timeframe. Most of our customers, as you mention, would not be looking this closely at the evenness of bevel, but we still take this into account in our sharpening methodology.

Thanks,

Travis
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Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple adjustment of the grinding angle
« Last post by Ken S on April 19, 2014, 04:49:19 pm »
Jambe,
I know it is frustrating not to get replies about the Multi Tool.  I have never thought it is forbidden to discuss it on this forum.  The forum is Tormek based, and Tormek foots the bill.  However, in my opinion, the Tormek and the MultiTool do different functions, albeit with some crossover.

You are the first person in my limited memory on this forum to mention actually owning a Multi Tool.  Persons posting about the Tormek drill bit jig have the same lack of coverage problem. I don't own a Multi tool.  It looks like a very useful tool. 

In my case, I found an ancient Dayton belt grinder at a nearby yard sale for $25.  The disc sander was missing (still missing); the motor had been rewired with lamp cord; and the pulleys and belt were a basket case.  I rewired the motor and for another $25 replaced the pulleys and belt.  It is no match for a Multi Tool, but is adequate for my needs.

I have found it to be a very useful tool.  The wider belt on the Multi Tool would seem even more useful.  I especially like being able to quickly and easily change belt grits.

I don't think you will find much experienced advice on this forum, but I hope you will post your thoughts on using it.

When Rob was purchasing a dry grinder to augment his Tormek, I recommended a NOrton 3X 40 grit wheel, or similar.  The Tormek excels at sharpening. The dry grinder can remove more metal easily.  I would not cripple the dry grinder by using a fine wheel.  Use the Tormek for the fine stuff.

Do keep us posted.

Ken
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Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple adjustment of the grinding angle
« Last post by Ken S on April 19, 2014, 11:32:19 am »
Ton,
I found the post numbers by clicking onto my name and selecting "show posts". 

I did this only after having no luck with the site search function. (I have not had much luck with the site search function.)

I am no computer genius, however, the setup of the numbering system seems flawed.  Individual post number one is the most recent post.  That means by now my post #854 is probably #856.  For someone with half a dozen posts, that's not a problem.  With people like Jeff Farris, Herman, Rob, or me, with plus or minus a thousand posts each, that's very clumsy. 

Just reversing the numbering system to first (oldest) post being #1 would improve the situation greatly.

I propose a better solution.  Instead of quoting post numbers, the poster would make life easier for all of us by copy pasting the post or part of the post.  The poster would need to note who is being quoted and place quotation marks.  Personally, I have found that easier than using the site's quote feature.  Or, for those who prefer to use the quote feature, just use it.  The point is let's provide the reader with the answer rather than a roadmap of how to hopefully reach the answer.

I normally wouldn't post this much, but here is the copy paste of those three posts.  By the way, after bisecting my torlock jig, I realized I did it wrong,  Jeff Farris made an excellent suggestion.  If you are interested, I will share that experience in another post.

Ken

Here is the copy paste:


854
General Tormek Questions / Re: Free hand sharpening
« on: January 28, 2011, 11:31:38 am »
The ideal solution would be to visit your local authorized Tormek dealer and purchase an SVM-15 Small Knife Sharpening Jig.  Unfortunately, that won't work.  Tormek doesn't make such a jig.  So, here's my 'Plan B":

Start with an SVD-110 Tool Rest.  You may already have one. If not, they are inexpensive and versatile.

For clarity, I will refer to the SVD-110 as the "Tormek platform".  The part you make will be the "blade platform".

I suggest you start by making a mock up.  Mine was just three layers of cardboard cut to 2" x 8" and a couple clothespins. Quarter inch plywood or Masonite would be ideal.  Beveling the underside of the mockup piece will let you get closer to the wheel.  I just staggered the cardboard layers.

 Set up your Tormek with the universal support bar in the horizontal position (wheel revolving away from the blade).  Install the Tool Rest jig.  Place the mockup (henceforth referred to as the blade platform) on the tormek platform.  For starters, place it lining up with the left edge of the Tormek platform and protruding about two inches beyond (toward the stone).  Secure with the clothespins.  Set with the angle jig to 20 degrees.  Follow the general Tormek safety practice of allowing 2mm (3/32") clearance between the jig and the grinding wheel.

I used my pocket Swiss Army knife with the prototype.  The small blade rests on the blade platform.  DO NOT TURN ON THE POWER.  With the blade resting on the blade platform, swing it to follow the arc of the edge. Notice the two inch dimension matches the width of the grinding stone.  This lets you position both sides of the blade without moving the jig. 

Using the mockup prototype will let you see how much platform protrusion you want. YOu want it short enough to be rigid and long enough to swing the blade arc. Making the mockup requires very little time and no cost.  It will speed the end result.

Once you have decided to proceed, you will probably want to add some shoulders on the bottom side of the blade platform to register against (rest against) the Tormek platform.  This will keep the platform from shifting.  I would consider an ideal final shape to be wide enough to allow shoulders on both sides of the Tormek platform, with the protrusion notched to two inches (to match the width of the wheel).  I would place a shoulder under the front edge for the shortest protrusion you wish.  The back shoulder could either be placed for this position or moved back to allow a longer protrusion when needed.

Vise grip makes a nice small plier type of clamp which allows for the back of the Tormek platform not being parallel.  This clamp can be pre adjusted and popped on and off as needed.  A regular C clamp ("G cramp" for those of you who still speak English) would do fine.

I use Baltic Birch Ply  for lots of stuff.  Unless you use metal, the water from the wheel will create a harsh environment for your jig.  Paint it, or otherwise seal it.  It probably won't last "forever", but should give good service.

This simple jig will not give the ease of use the regular Tormek knife jigs do.  It should give you more control over the angle of the bevel.  You must lay the blade flat on the platform; the jig does not actually hold the knife.

I would suggest starting very gingerly with the stone fully graded fine, or, as mentioned by Gary, on the leather honing wheel if the knife is not very dull.  The coarse stone can be used to rapidly create "nano knives" which may not please your customers.

I hope this helps.

Ken
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821
General Tormek Questions / Re: switching between wheels
« on: February 12, 2011, 04:36:00 pm »
Steve,

I don't do movies.  However, the movies on this website can help you.  Watch the movie associated with the TTS-100.  It will show you how to set the distance from the stone to the universal support bar using the TTS-100.  (I suggest using the thirty degree setting.)

With the distance set, switch to the WM-200 setter.  Watch the film on the site associated with this jig.  Set the protrusion of the blade for the angle you want.  Do not change the distance of the bar; change the length of the protrusion to achieve the angle you want.

The back of the TTS-100 has three protrusion lengths for turning tools.  One of these may happen to fit the length you want for your blade.  If so, use it and note it for future reference.  If not, you may make a sharpie line on one of the lengths to correspond with the length you want.  Making a kine of a piece of cardboard or plywood would also work.  Be sure to label it.

When you switch wheels, just set the new wheel to the same TTS-100 setting as the original wheel.  The two point design of the TTS-100 automatically calibrates the universal support bar to the same angle.

The same method works with the leather honing wheel.

Good luck.

Ken 

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General Tormek Questions / switching between wheels
« on: February 12, 2011, 12:17:53 pm »
In the Woodworking post ("a note to Steve", Jeff made this comment regarding changing the grinding wheel from the general wheel to the 4000 grit wheel:

"If the diameters are different (and they are) you will have to readjust the Universal Support height, but there's no reason to make any adjustments to the jig."

I have been investigating the possibility of using the TTS-100 for setting the height of the universal support bar when sharpening chisels and planes.  Its two point design automatically self corrects for wheel diameter differences.  When using just one wheel, this seemed overkill.  However, it might simplify switching back and forth between different grit (and diameter) wheels, and also with the honing wheel.

Here is how the procedure works"

1)  Using the TTS=100, set the universal support bar to the lower setting (the thirty degree setting).

2)  Set the length of the tool projection from the SE-76 to the correct angle, using either the Angle Master or black marker.  Note this length and make a gage block or cardboard marker.

3) After switching grinding wheels, set the new wheel with the TTS-100 just as you set the first wheel.  The two point alignment system should automatically realign the tool at the original projection length.

Ken
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10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple adjustment of the grinding angle
« Last post by Jambe on April 18, 2014, 07:42:26 pm »
 Re: Simple adjustment of the grinding angle
« Reply #7 on: Today at 03:01:53 am »
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