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General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 or T7?
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 07:25:05 pm »
I can see both points of view.  In the past, I have always leaned toward over buying. However, years later, I have realized that I did not need as much excess capacity as I dreamed I might. For anyone who routinely sharpens several hours each week, I would lean toward the T7, especially if doing heavy work. For the home woodworker who keeps his plane blades and chisels in top working order, with some kitchen knives, the T4 should be more than adequate.  Even with something like turning, a turner using a mini lathe to make pens would need well sharpened tools, but the sharpening setup need not be heavy duty industrial.

The decision should be based on the reasonably expected work load.  I do not see the T4 as having lower quality.  It is just designed for a lighter work load.

General Tormek Questions / Re: New to tormek
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 07:17:12 pm »
I would stop oiling (now that you have already started with oil) and switch to using the honing compound.  Eventually the honing compound will work into the leather and you will be up and running.

General Tormek Questions / Re: New to tormek
« Last post by jeffs55 on Yesterday at 05:51:12 pm »
And i have a new question:
How do you oil your leather honing wheel?[/quote]
Be very careful and under no circumstances are you to over oil the wheel. There is no easy cure for an over oiled wheel. My advice is to barely oil it and let the oil soak in. As you know, when you apply the oil it has to migrate into the surrounding leather and therefore it goes from a highly concentrated area to an area of low to no concentration. It will take hours for you to oil the wheel properly. You cannot speed the process except by heating both the oil and the wheel. I would apply the oil to the wheel and leave it in the sun. Just my two cents.
General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 or T7?
« Last post by SharpenADullWitt on Yesterday at 02:46:37 pm »
No different then the "value" argument, it is a personal thing.  I use mine for lots of things, but the friend whose restaurant has sent me knives to sharpen, well that is all they would use it for and if they had something like the T4 to hone or touch them up often, that would be all they needed.
General Tormek Questions / Re: New to tormek
« Last post by grepper on Yesterday at 01:24:04 pm »
Thanks Jeff55 and Herman.  After all this time I was not aware of that issue.  Must be the thing is not clamping in the center of the blade.

Herman’s solution works very well and solves most problems associated with the SVM-45/140 knife jigs, such as very small blades like a pen knife, thin blades such as fillet knives and longer blades like machetes. 

Sorry, but I don’t know the exact answer to your small blade question. Maybe someone else might post about that.  Just guessing, but could you clamp it just slightly off center so there is just room for the Anglemaster? For me, if the blade is a really teeny-tiny, itsy-bitsy little thing, I just do it by hand.

Lillis, I think your question about oiling the honing wheel is, by far, the most common question new users ask.  It’s been asked over and over again.  When I first got mine, I wondered the exact same thing!  It seems everybody does. :)

It’s easy to way over think initial oiling.  I used light machine oil, it might have been sewing machine oil.  Just don’t put on too much! If anyone else has a better explanation please post it, but I think it’s basically:

Searching the forums should produce a lot of answers.
General Tormek Questions / Re: New to tormek
« Last post by Lillis on Yesterday at 07:33:40 am »
RE: “I know I have seen some video where they explained that if the knife blade is very thin, you could measure the angel to the knife jig. But i cant find it, was it -10° on the angel or something like that?”

Lack of coffee I suspect, but I’m not sure what you are asking.  Could you please clarify what the problem is?

RE: “Also, is it the same for both knife jigs?”

Do you mean the standard knife jig vs the long knife jig?  If so, yes.  It’s the same.

Could be the lack of coffee yes :)
What I was meant to ask was: When the blade of the knife is to small to measure the angle, what is the + or - angel you can measure on the jig? Dont know if its -10°, was just a guess.
Then i meant if that goes for both the SVM-45 and the SVM-140? that would be depending on the material thickness of the jig.

And i have a new question:
How do you oil your leather honing wheel? I used "sewing machine" oil, very fine machine oil. I read that some people use that for there leather.
But i think it is still dry, i pored alot on there and polished it in with a peace of cloth.
When im honing on the leather wheel, the honing compound is almost completely dry and that makes some dust of if.

How wet should the leather be, soaked?
What do you use to lubricate it with?
General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 or T7?
« Last post by jeffs55 on Yesterday at 04:35:36 am »
I made up a saying for which I am quite proud. It goes like this, "you can use less of more but you cannot make more of less". It means that you can use part of a larger or more powerful thing, but you probably cannot make a smaller or less powerful thing big enough or powerful enough. Go with bigger, in this case the T7. When was the last time you regretted buying the best?
General Tormek Questions / T4 or T7?
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 02:27:19 am »
Choosing between a T3 (now T4) and a T7 is a frequent post on this forum. Almost all of us are T7 users.  Invariably the advice has been to favor the T7. My advice has always been that the smaller units may be desirable in small work areas or in situations requiring light weight for portability or for older users.  I have never felt the price difference was enough to be a major consideration.

I had the opportunity to examine the T4 this afternoon and discuss it with two Tormek experts. I still believe the price difference between the T4 and T7 is not enough to be a serious consideration, especially for those of us who sharpen woodworking tools. (The T4 does not come with the SE-76 square edge jig.  The T7 does come with it.)

Getting beyond the cost difference, I was surprisingly pleased with the T4. The cast zinc top with machined sleeves for the universal support bar is much more precise than the old plastic. The entire unit had a more solid feel. It also has a sturdy handle. The supposedly “fifty per cent duty” motor is most unlikely to burn out with home or light commercial use. I would not factor it in.

Over the past years, I have purchased two T7s.  (The first one was stolen.) When I needed to replace the first unit, I automatically chose another T7. If I needed to purchase a Tormek now, I would probably choose the T7 again.  However, that decision would be heavily influenced by the fact that I already own the black and Japanese wheels.

If I did not already own the two extra wheels, the decision would be difficult. It would come down to the smaller size and weight of the T4 or the ten inch diameter wheel of the T7. Considering most dry grinders have six inch wheels, with eight inch being a smaller number of more deluxe models, I think the eight inch wheels of the T4 would more than suffice for my work. My Tormek does not leave my shop. The shop is large enough that Tormek size is really not a consideration. If I traveled with the Tormek or had a mobile sharpening service, I would definitely opt for the smaller unit.

For those of you who are debating which model Tormek to purchase, I urge you to consider the choice carefully,

Wood Turning / Re: Mounting BGM-100 Set on my Grinder?
« Last post by Herman Trivilino on October 30, 2014, 08:44:56 pm »
I forgot how much you guys have to rely on those wood burners.  ;)
General Tormek Questions / Re: New to tormek
« Last post by Herman Trivilino on October 30, 2014, 07:29:28 pm »
Jeff55, what do you mean by “thick blade knives”? 

This is an issue with the SVM-45 knife jig. Let's say you're grinding at a 40o angle, 20o on each side.  That 20o angle is measured using the top edge of the knife blade as it lays on the stone. Then, if you flip the knife over you'll notice that the top edge of the other side is not 20o, but only if the knife is very thick.

I doubt any customer would notice this difference, and it can be avoided using a homemade jig consisting of a platform mounted in such a way that it rests very close to the grindstone.
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