I have the large Alan Lacer skew and it is a real heavyweight slab of steel. When I bought it, the included angle of the cutting edge seemed rather fat for a skew -- it was somewhere around 60?. Also, I thought that the amount of curvature was rather extreme and curved forward much more than what I have seen Alan use at a demo. To me, it was more like having an axe on a turning tool handle so I reworked the profile to make it fall somewhere between Alan Lacer's real style and the style that I have been using which is the more traditional curved bevel.
My initial shaping was done on a dry grinder since a LOT of metal needed to be removed. I also decided to go with the more common 40? included bevel angle which means that with a tool this thick that the bevel will be VERY wide. There is a design tradeoff involving bevel angle between edge durability and how well the edge slices. There is not a "right" answer, but I personally prefer narrower bevel angles which also means that I must sharpen the edge a bit more often. Both approaches have their payoff.
It didn't take too long to figure out that the flat tool rest was about my only choice in existing fixtures and I managed to do it, but I should warn others that with such a long shallow bevel angle, it is very easy for the tool to run away from you. After a few initial runaways, I refined my technique which included keeping fairly light pressure against the stone and being very careful to make sure that I have the tool held firmly down on the rest. After a lot of practice and being extra careful, I managed to complete the task successfully. The bad news is that it always felt as though I was on the hairy edge of an incipient runaway. I think that I will look into coming up with a homemade fixture to use with the guide bar next time.