Author Topic: Palm Tool Sharpening  (Read 7655 times)

Offline Dub

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Palm Tool Sharpening
« on: May 13, 2004, 02:34:38 pm »
I've just purchased a new 2006 from Rockler.. Sorry Jeff.. I didn't know about you until I found this site. I'd rather have supported you because of your support to all Tormek users that find you...  :-\

I do a lot of woodcarving and minimal turning so far. I both use and sell Stubai woodcarving tools. I have some Pfeil long mallet tools but rarely use them.

The Stubai palm tools I have range from a #3 sweep (very slight radius) to the #11 sweep (U shaped) in ranges from 2mm side to side to about 20mm. I also have a variety of #4X (41, etc) "V" tools.

To my disappointment, after using the Tormek for the first time, I found I was unable to grind a clean square cutting edge such as they come from the manufacturer. The tools are very sharp.. but the tool edges are not straight across for the tools. I'm sure it is user related.. The inside radius of the tools look uniform.

I used the small tool holder for the tools I have ground so far.. I've ground all my tools from #3 sweep to #6 sweep using this jig.

So another question that arises, still considering the grinding of my palm tools.. what fixture do I use to grind the balance of my tools (same length)that have #7 sweeps to #11 sweeps?

I guess I can continue to use this jig.. but would rather begin to use the 185 jig.. because I'd like to do a semi fingernail on some of the "U" gouges (#11 sweeps).

Hopefully, I've expressed my current concerns clearly enough to help provide an answer. I'll ask about various "V" tools in a later post.

Thank you, Bill


Offline Jeff Farris

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Re:Palm Tool Sharpening
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2004, 05:31:11 am »
The SVS-32 should handle any sweep and any length.  The SVD-185 is only necessary for bent or spoon gouges or Flex-Cut brand gouges.

As for keeping the edges relatively straight across, without waves, make sure your stone is very, very smooth with the SP-650 Stone Grader.  Also, blunt the end of the tool before grinding, then grind til the edge shows no reflection and a burr is found inside the flute.  

For normal carving gouges, you need not use the SVD-185 to relieve the edges.  Just spend a little extra time on the outside edges.  
Jeff Farris

Offline Dub

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Re:Palm Tool Sharpening
« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2004, 03:41:44 pm »
Thanks for the reply, Jeff.
I have found the Tormek to be almost marginal for my palm tools.. unless I'm doing something wrong.  Palm's are what I use 90% of the time based on the smaller carvings I do.

They typical extension beyond the ferrule on my Stubai's is about 2.625"  When I move the UTS combined with the SVS-32.. I'm in about as far as I can go with adjustments to make up to a 20o angle.. and the bottom edge of the 32 just misses the stone.

I don't believe the length of the FlexCut palms are any longer.. but they may be.  I have a few Harman tools in my box and they are even shorter than 2.5".. they are about 1.5mm bent "V"s.  So, I guess I'll have to eyeball those..??

I have a lot to learn

Offline Jeff Farris

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Re:Palm Tool Sharpening
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2004, 10:27:02 pm »
Don't worry about using exactly 2.625 extension.  Use whatever you need to get the proper clearance on the SVS-32.  I even have some where I clamp on the ferrule of the tool instead of the tool itself.  

FlexCut's have to be done in the SVD-185 because the shank is flat and cannot be used to guide the sweep of the gouge.
Jeff Farris