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Messages - Ken S

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1
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG250
« on: Today at 03:17:46 am »
Rich, At the risk of being the bearer of bad news, I can tell you from personal experience that keenness does not improve with age.  :)

Ken

2
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG250
« on: Today at 02:25:07 am »
Rich,

Where did you hear that the stone grader should be replaced with every grinding wheel replacement? I have not heard or read that before. If that is the case, it should be noted in the handbook and the instructions included with the grinding wheels.

Ken

3
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG250
« on: Today at 02:22:11 am »
Richard,

This is a situation where you should definitely contact Tormek support (support@tormek.se). Depending on how long you have had this stone, it may still be under warranty. Also, based on what you have said, the stone may be defective. If so, Tormek may want to replace it.

It is worth raising the issue with support. Please post the result.

Ken

4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Truing Wheels, SJ Odd Inclusions
« on: Yesterday at 08:33:18 pm »
We have had several reports of problems truing and dressing the SJ 4000 grit wheel. I have no doubt that there is a problem, be it with the wheel itself or the operator technique. I have not experienced it myself, although I rarely use the SJ.I will be interested in following this.

My one thought would be to ask how deep of a truing cut people are using. I only use half a microadjust number with each slow pass.

Ken

5
General Tormek Questions / Re: SG250
« on: Yesterday at 08:24:01 pm »
Interesting observation, Richard. I have not seen this mentioned previously. I urge other long time members to post their observations. I will also be interested in what support says. Please share their reply.

Unfortunately, I must agree with CB that Sweden does not follow the forum often.

Ken

6
General Tormek Questions / Re: BGM-100 questions
« on: September 23, 2018, 10:22:27 pm »
Thanks, Rich.

I am thinking that with the small amount of use I project, the BGM-100 would be more than adequate. I only plan to use the dry grinder for occasional coarse work. The final work would still be done with my Tormek.

Ken

7
General Tormek Questions / Re: Dual USB BGM-100s Mounted on Bench Grinder
« on: September 23, 2018, 06:16:02 pm »
Rick,

You would need to do some test runs, however, I believe that coarser wheels, like the 3X, especially the 46 grit, run cooler than finer stones.

Ken

8
General Tormek Questions / BGM-100 questions
« on: September 23, 2018, 04:30:17 pm »
For several years I have resisted setting up my dry grinder with the BGM-100. I have several reasons for this. My dry grinder is a six inch high speed model. According to the Tormek instructions, this should work. To be kind, I would say that it does not seem an ideal set up.

Until quite recently, I had no use for the dry grinder with Tormek jigs. That is changing a little as I have recently started woodturning. I have successfully done some reshaping with Norton 3X, CBN, and, most recently, the new Tormek diamond wheels. It can be done, although not with as much lightning speed as some would like. I still don't have enough need to purchase and tool up a lower speed eight inch dry grinder, however, if it would be effective, I would consider redoing my present high speed six inch dry grinder to include a BGM or two on the baseboard. I presently have a 3X 46 grit wheel and an 80grit white wheel on my dry grinder.

My first question is: Have any of the hooked up a similar six inch grinder with the BGM-100? If so, how well has it worked?

My second question concerns the OWC adaptor to adapt Tormek jigs to the Oneway Wolverine system. I presently have the OWC adaptor, although not the Wolverine kit. The OWC seems more versatile to me than the BGM. Does anyone have experience with it?

I still have misgivings about using my dry grinder. I am quite content with the water cooled, dust free Tormek environment. 3x, my 180 grit CBN wheel and the DWC-200 Tormek diamond wheel give my T4 plenty of firepower. My 80 and 180 grit CBN wheels and Tormek DC-250 diamond wheels provide plenty of firepower for my T7/8. The only constraint is that reshaping takes several minutes, instead of less than a minute. We live in fast times.

Ken

9
General Tormek Questions / Re: Clipper Blades on Diamond Wheels?
« on: September 23, 2018, 04:36:44 am »
Interesting question, S2man. I have never sharpened clipper blades, although I will be interested to read replies from those who have.

Ken

10
Knife Sharpening / Re: First Farmer's Market
« on: September 23, 2018, 04:34:06 am »
My original inspiration for the 3X wheels was a long forgotten post where the member mentioned using a "cheap" grinding wheel on his Tormek with good results. He never posted again. I thought that if a cheap wheel worked, how would a good wheel like the 3X work? I already had a 46 grit 3X wheel on my six inch grinder. It cuts like a trooper. It would not work with my T7; the wheel was too far from the water.

When I got my T4, I tried the six inch 3X with it. A six inch wheel on an eight inch Tormek is not ideal, however, the wheel reached the water. I used a bolt to test the cutting. It worked really well! I purchased the 3X eight inch wheels in eighty and soon after forty six grit. Both work very well on the T4. They work as well as any grinding wheel worn to eight inches on the T7/8. Either one will do; you really don't need both grits. Especially the 46 grit wheel can serve as the coarse wheel Tormek has not made.

The 3X wheels are not as convenient to use as the Tormek diamond wheels or CBN. I used them wet with the Tormek, cool and dust free. At fifty dollars US for either one, I think they are a viable inexpensive option for anyone who reshapes a turning tool only occasionally.

I rarely need to do that much coarse grinding. Rick was getting into heavy duty drill bit sharpening, so I passed them along to him. An 80 grit 3X mounted on a T4 would save a wheel change. The T4 weighs half the weight of a T8 and costs less. The T4 would also serve as an emergency backup in the most unlikely event that anything happened to the T8.

Ken

11
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpening Henckel knives
« on: September 23, 2018, 02:39:58 am »
So I've set up my new T8, I have the hand tool kit and have sharpened a few cheapo Sam's club knives and tried my hand at my 20 yr old Henckels.  The Henckels have been dull for a long time.  I used the suggested 15 degree (30 inclusive) and it took a long time to get any burr.  I used the wheel at 1000 grit.  Are these knives made from steel that is generally harder?  Any pointers on sharpening these in general?

thanks

I think there is often a tendency in life to oversimplify. While the 1000 grit grading does a nice job for a knife which is not quite sharp, long dull Henckels Mine that were that way for many years (I recognize the symptoms; mine were that way for many years....) these are near the "childproof" catagory. The "precious Henckels" syndrome is very much like the precious grinding wheel syndrome. Really dull knives need a coarser grinding wheel, even Henckels.

As you get more experience, you will find that the stone grader is not limited to only 220 and 1000 grit. I know a very experiencd Tormek knife sharpener who routinely uses his Tormek SG grinding wheel graded to "600”. I put six hundred in quotes because I believe all stone grader grits are approximate. For me, 600 is a medium coarseness. It is very useful, and the grit designation is plenty accurate.

Frequent, light truing will help keep your sharpening accurate, just like keeping your car engine well tuned. Likewise, frequent use of the stone grader will keep your grindstone cutting better. Both truing and grading will become very quick as your skill increases, and will help your skill develop.

Ken

12
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-8 carry case
« on: September 21, 2018, 08:17:30 pm »
Rick,
Clever set up.
Ken

13
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-8 carry case
« on: September 21, 2018, 12:45:12 pm »
I would remove the grinding wheel and place it beneath the T8.

I use a single ball size bowling bag to carry my T4. As our UK friends would say, "it works a treat". I place the grinding wheel back into its original box and set it on the bottom of the bag. The T4 sets on top of the grinding wheel box. There is plenty of room in the bag for accessories and jigs. The bag will actually hold two boxed grinding wheels beneath the T4. The bag has both a hand grip strap and a shoulder strap. With the lighter weight T4, the bag is surprisingly comfortable to carry. I think it would be an ideal set up for an urban sharpener who visited customer locations via public transportation and walking or for a hunting club with a cabin.

My bowling bag cost $32US and no one would ever think it contains expensive camera gear.

I have seen a T8 in a carrying case. I met Stig when he was first showing the T8 to the US dealers. Stig has his T8 in a hard case. I forget the brand name. It was sturdy enough to endure the baggage treatment of transatlantic flying. (Stig is a brave man; he was traveling with only one T8. A misplaced container would have greatly impacted his trip!)

You do not mention your carrying purpose and/or needs. In my case, as a senior citizen, weight is a critical factor. I generally remove the grinding wheel to move a Tormek across my workshop or put it into my car. I think having access to wheels is a top consideration. I like suitases with wheels and collapsible handles. A separate lightweight folding dolly might work, also.

I know a sharpener who carries his belt grinder in a plastic cooler. When he sets up, he places the belt grinder on top of the cooler. It is a comfortable height for working while sitting.

My Tormeks live mostly in my basement workshop. I'm sure our "weekend warriors" who work the farmers markets have ideas.

Whatever you decide, do keep us posted.

Ken

14
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finer Points of Burr/Wire Edge Removal
« on: September 19, 2018, 12:07:43 pm »
Scott,

There are several ways to compensate for the diameter differences in wheels, including the leather honing wheel. They range in cost from free to very reasonable, depending on the desired accuracy.

The most accurate method is to use the applet from knifegrinders.com.au.  This inexpensive program is inexpensive, very accurate, and easy to use.

For general use, my preferred method is the kenjig. (Caveat; I am Ken.) If you use one or two angle settings, say 15° and 20°, this very simple method is very fast and reliable. If you use different settings and/ or wheels, the Knife Grinders applet is your best bet. Forum member Rich Colvin has placed the kenjig instructions in his Sharpening Handbook, as well as the grinding angle tables designed by Dutchman of this forum. Dutchman's work is the basis for the kenjig, as well as most of the firum jigs.You can reach this valuable free resource from his member name on this forum. I refer to it often.

The other choice is the Anglemaster. For a long time, I found the Anglemaster tedious. As I have added more flat ground knives (instead of the traditional bolstered taper ground knives) I have found the Anglemaster more user friendly, especially if I use it with a substitute target. A substitute target is two thickness of gift cards with the same jig Projection as the knife blade. This presents a nice flat surface for the Anglemaster.

If you envy the kind of sharpness achieved by Wootz (Knife Grinders), get his applet. He has provided excellent video instructions.

Ken

15
That is a good deal.

I am happy for you. I look forward to reading your future posts.

Welcome aboard.

Ken

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