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Messages - Ken S

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My intended use for theNorton 3X wheels is occasional heavier grinding, specifically reshaping turning tools. For a lot of heavier routine grinding, a diamond or CBN wheel would work better. For fifty bucks, a 3X wheel adds a lot of firepower to the T4. As Rick has learned, the 3X also works with the larger size Tormeks. My plan is to use the 3X for the heavy work and finish with the SG.


Scissors Sharpening / Re: Re-riveting old moustache scissors
« on: Yesterday at 07:58:24 pm »
Well done, Jan!


I have found that the Tormek and a belt grinder complement each other very well, especially if the belt grinder is converted to variable speed.

I am impressed with the Knife Grinders CBN wheels. However, they are only available in 250 mm diameter.
Other 200 mm CBN wheels are available. If the DWC-200 is not fast cutting enough for your needs or wants, I suggest the Norton 3X wheels, either in 80 or 46 grit. Either of these $50 wheels will get the job done for you.  The 3X wheels are not exactly plug and play with the Tormek, however, either of them will do what you need.


General Tormek Questions / Re: nick in honing wheel
« on: December 10, 2019, 05:14:36 pm »
I agree with Jeff. I would try to repair it. Worst case scenario is a replacement part. Either way, you will be up and running again.

General Tormek Questions / Re: First Post & First Question
« on: December 10, 2019, 05:10:48 pm »
Sorry to miss you. You are correct; the kenjig is a very dimple tool. You can make one out of cardboard, like the working prototypes were, in less time than it takes to read the pdf.

General Tormek Questions / Re: First Post & First Question
« on: December 10, 2019, 03:10:27 pm »
I mailed out several gift kenjigs several years ago. My memory is fuzzy, but I would think you would have been on the list. Did you receive one?

General Tormek Questions / Re: First Post & First Question
« on: December 10, 2019, 10:32:06 am »
Here is a link to the kenjig:

If you decide to sharpen all of your knives to 15°, the two settings will be the same for all of them. (This post assumes a T7/8 250mm grinding wheel diameter or reasonably close to it.)The Distance from the top of the universal support bar to the grinding wheel will be 80mm. The Projection from the front ofthe adjustable stop on your knife jig to the edge of your knife will be 139 mm. Once you set this for your first knife, you do not have to change any of the settings. You can make up a single simple kenjig from a piece of cardboard and use only one knife jig. Reading the pdf will take you longer than making and using your kenjig. By keeping things simple, you will have become proficient by the time you initiall sharpen your knives.

Normally we sharpen knives which already have the desired bevel using the grinding wheel graded somewhat fine with the stone grader. If you are recutting the bevels you may want to start with the stone grader graded coarse to speed up the process.

If your knives include paring knives, where the Projection can not extend to 139 mm and you do not have the small blade tool, just make up a second kenjig marked for a 125 mm Projection and cut for a Distance of 68mm.

Please feel free to ask questions. The kenjig is based on math provided originally by forum member Dutchman. Although the jig itself is simple, its trig foundation is very solid.


General Tormek Questions / Re: First Post & First Question
« on: December 10, 2019, 03:45:20 am »
Welcome to the forum, McEdge.
I would suggest standardizing at 15° per side. That's the European standard and a good starting point.

Knife Sharpening / Re: What to do/use when the needs alot of grinding.
« on: December 09, 2019, 10:30:27 pm »

Tormek has three distribution channels. One channel covers the T8 and T4, as well as their jigs and accessories. A restaurant channel covers the T2, which is designed for restaurant work. The third channel is the Bushmaster, catering to outdoor uses. Even though the T4 and T4 Bushmaster edition are identical except for color, and the T2 and T4 share most parts, they are distributed differently.

The DWF-200 (Diamond Wheel Find- 200mm diameter, 600 grit) was designed as the standard issue wheel with the T2. Tormek also added the DWC-200 360 grit wheel for the T2. No mention of using these with the T4. The reason that I know they will work with the T4 is because within an hour of receiving my T2, I had DWF working on my T4. (The rubber honing wheel also works on the T4, although I prefer the leather honing wheel.)

According to Tormek, the two 200mm diameter diamond wheels should only be used dry. Supposedly they will disintegrate if used wet. Even if only used dry, they are a useful addition to the T4.


Knife Sharpening / Re: T4 SG200 out of round
« on: December 09, 2019, 10:15:35 pm »
I realize the truing method I suggest may seem excruciatingly slow. That is by design. If "Dead Slow" works, the     TT-50 works. Once you know it works, you can gradually increase the depth of cut. Make sure it works first.

All I know is that it works for me.

Keep us posted.


Knife Sharpening / Re: T-8 Recommended minimum equipment?
« on: December 06, 2019, 05:54:12 pm »
Welcome to the forum, Klipsch.

I suspect my reply is not what you are hoping to hear. Please accept it in the honest, helpful way I intend it to be.

You are asking very good questions, which more and more members are asking. Please understand that I have the highest regard for Wootz. His research and technique have advanced knife sharpening, in my opinion, beyond levels imagined by Tormek. However, Wootz accomplished this through years of focused work. Look at Wootz'earliest posts on this forum. He encountered some of the same difficulties as the rest of us mortals. He combined his educational background as a trained researcher with hard work.

I would suggest that you add only the regular SVM-45 knife jig, if one did not come with your T8. I would not purchase an FVB or extra grinding wheels or leather honing wheels AT THIS TIME. "At this time" is the key phrase. Learn how to use your Tormek and how to sharpen your knives. Really learn these skills, not just a couple quick run throughs.

One of the most skilled knife sharpeners I know uses his Tormek with only the original SG wheel, stone grader and Tormek PA-70 honing compound. He has used this combination for years. (He uses more pressure and compound than most users. He also uses the stone grader more.) He keeps his grinding wheel graded to "600 grit", an approximate middle grade.

After you really learn how to sharpen knives with your basic Tormek,as has been done for almost fifty years, you will be able to get the best answers to your questions, your own expedience.

Keep sharpening and keep posting.


Knife Sharpening / Re: What to do/use when the needs alot of grinding.
« on: December 06, 2019, 05:06:54 pm »
Good question, Thomas.

I have a suggestion:

The Tormek DWC-200 (Diamond Wheel Coarse-200 mm diameter). This wheel cuts more aggressively than the SG-200. Tormek only markets it for the T2 for some reason. I can tell you from personal experience that it and the DWF-200 wheels work just as well with the T4. Tormek claims they should only be used dry, although I have not seen any supporting data for that claim. Even used dry, they ate very useful with the T4. The shaft and almost the entire machines are identical with the T2 and T4.

You can also use a belt grinder, however, the DWC-200 would be my first choice.


Knife Sharpening / Re: T4 SG200 out of round
« on: December 05, 2019, 04:26:36 pm »
I second John's recommendation. (John's reply came in while I was typing.)


Knife Sharpening / Re: T4 SG200 out of round
« on: December 05, 2019, 04:23:46 pm »
Welcome to the forum, Scotty.

An out of round grinding wheel can easily sneak up on you. (unfortunately, I speak from personal experience, more than once.  :(

What I have learned to do is to use the TT-50 Truing Tool, very gingerly with very light and slow passes. Your first pass should barely touch only the highest spots on your grinding wheel. Move very slowly across the wheel; ninety seconds is not too long. Lower the microadjust only a fraction of one number. Yes, this is a slow procedure. Yes, it is also very safe and effective.

Keep making very light passes until you have a pass which lightly touches the entire wheel. At that point, stop. There is no extra credit for "one more for good measure".

In the future, true your wheel frequently and lightly. Your Tormek will work better.


General Tormek Questions / Re: Repair SJ-200 Stone?
« on: December 04, 2019, 04:31:03 am »

You do not mention the cause of your chip. In addition to repairing the chip, part of moving forward should be avoiding whatever caused the chip in the future.

My answer will not be popular. If the chip interferes with using the grinding wheel, I would very carefully grind it away with the TT-50 truing tool. I would use the very shallow cuts I have advocated previously, perhaps being even more careful as it is the SJ Japanese wheel.

I realize the SJ-200 is a very expensive grinding wheel.


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