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Messages - Ken S

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something we would all like   :)


Welcome to the forum, Chris.

I hope this forum will be a source of good info. I have never personally experienced Tormak motor problems, although I know people who have had these problems. I printed out support's advice and taped it inside my handbook. Hopefully I will never need it.  :)

Keep posting.

Ken (a now retired telephone man)

I contacted support for advice about diagnosing motor problems. Here is the advice from support:

A motor does not run if it has burned winding. It just stops and hums or is totally quiet. It depends in which wire that is burned.
It is the same if a capacitor is gone, but the different is that you can push start
a motor with a bad capacitor and then it runs pretty normal.
9 times out of 10 it is the motor shaft slipping on the drive wheel.  Second place goes to capacitor.
It is very rare to  burn a motor, the bearings usually go before the windings inside the motor.

I would suggest printing out this advice from support and taping it in our handbooks.

Any word, Sean?


ps Starting the motor by pushing the grinding wheel reminds me of my old VW beetle with abad coil. I remember pushing it many times. Thank goodness for manual transmission!

General Tormek Questions / Re: possible portable Tormek stand
« on: December 07, 2018, 11:51:53 am »

“Cheap and works for me". I like that, very practical.


Welcome to posting, Jeff.

Remember to use very light grinding pressure with the diamond wheels. I think you will enjoy using them. I like the continuous cutting sound and feel that does not decline or need to be frequently refreshed. Keep in mind that, like CBN wheels, there is an initial break in period when the wheels cut more aggressively. This is short.



An inexpensive children's plastic medicine graduate/spoon from the pharmacy department, graduated in milliliters, simplifies using the ACC.

General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergind 2000 motor burnt out
« on: December 07, 2018, 12:52:39 am »

Would you please remove your leather honing wheel. Then remove the nut which secures your rubber drive wheel and carefully remove the rubber drive wheel. At this point, your motor is isolated from the shaft. Turn on the motor. If it seems to run fine, your motor is working.

Before reattaching your rubber drive wheel, use some sandpaper to remove any built up glazing. Hopefully, your Tormek will run properly now.

If not, try pushing the wheel during start up. If your motor needs this help starting, your starting capacitor is bad. This is a much easier and less expensive fix than a bad motor.

If you get everything working, this would also be a good time to clean and regrease your nylon bushings.

Keep us posted.


Wood Turning / Re: Alan Lacer skew revisited
« on: December 07, 2018, 12:40:31 am »

I have not been able to spend sharpening time, however, I have made some small progress in the right direction. I just purchased a spare closed seat for my SVS-50 on ebay. I plan to file out the one end to accept the Lacer skew. That will be the easy part. I am still working on how to match the radius part of the grind. Rich Colvin has a good idea. We have work to do!

I  am still thinking through the difference in radiii. Eight inch dry grinders seem to be the weapons of choice for woodturners today. The CBN wheels are almost exclusively eight inch diameter. I recently sharpened my grandfather's one inch turning skew using the SG250 on my T7. It was more work than I realized. It was last sharpened by my grandfather using his six inch dry grinder. At least one prominent woodworking teacher recommends always sharpening skews with a flat bevel.

So, what is the ideal grinding radius? Alan Lacer has stated that the purpose of the hollow grind is to help with hand honing. His preferred hand honer is a 600 grit diamond file.

I can certainly understand why Alan Lacer has not included the Tormek in his sharpening technique.  Tormek has never made a jig which works with his most used large skew. Also, the new DWC-200 and DC-250 diamond wheels are the first grinding wheels Tormek has ever made which approach being coarse wheels.

I have four choices in eight inch coarse grinding wheels: The Tormek DWC-200; a D-Way 180 grit CBN; and Norton 3X wheels in 46 and 80 grits. Although they work best with the T4, they will work with the larger Tormeks as well as any grinding wheel worn to eight inches.

Since the Lacer skew appears to have been ground with an eight inch radius, I will start with my T4 and the 180 grit CBN wheel. I can use this wheel wet (with ACC or Honerite Gold). For anything more than touch up sharpening, I recommend using the vertical position.

Until a better jigged Tormek solution is discovered, I will use the Torlock platform, essentially like Alan Lacer uses it. I think effective honing can be done on the Tormek using either the DWC-200 or the SG-200 graded middle or fine. With the Torlock platform left in place on the support bar, changing grits should be fast. Using just the 600 grit wheel should substitute for honing, with no rounding danger.

I have much to learn about skews and will share my observations from time to time. I encourage others to do likewise.


Knife Sharpening / Re: How to get razor-sharp knives on Tormek
« on: December 06, 2018, 01:39:40 pm »

Tell your wife that the FVB will help you maintain her kitchen knives better. Hopefully she knows you well enough to immediately see through this dodge, but will let you get it anyway.


Just to set the record straight, in his interview with Stumpy Nubs, Stig does advise against dropping the grinding wheel on the floor.  :)


General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergind 2000 motor burnt out
« on: December 06, 2018, 01:32:22 pm »

Elden makes a very good point, which the rest of us have overlooked. If your motor runs, when not under load, I think it is all right. If it is just slipping under load, all you need to do is clean up the rubber drive wheel with some sandpaper. This is described in the handbook. If you register your Tormek on the tormek website, you can access and download the handbook.

Note to the forum members, including me: In our desire to help, we may not always take enough time diagnosing the problem. Sean's motor may or may not work, however, we need to do due diligence before condemning it.


General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergind 2000 motor burnt out
« on: December 05, 2018, 11:45:07 pm »

Please check your forum messages.

Ken  :)

Knife Sharpening / Re: Help Finding edge Angle of Japanese Knife
« on: December 05, 2018, 01:13:31 pm »
Thank you, Magnus. Excellent information.


General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergind 2000 motor burnt out
« on: December 05, 2018, 01:11:49 pm »
Welcome to the forum, Sean.

A replacement new Tormek motor costs $312.95 in the US, just for the motor. Here is a link:

Frankly, you are getting in the price range for a good used T7 or a new T4. A new T4 will have a seven year warranty, a stainless steel shaft, and the microadjust support bar, as well as a new grinding wheel. It will not come with a TT-50 truing ((available as an essential "optional" extra, add a hundred dollars to the cost). I like the T4. It would serve you well.

A good used T7 will have a stainless steel shaft. Look for one with EZYlock unless the price is really low. It should have the microadjust support bar and the TT-50. Many of the T7s had a ten year warranty, which should transfer. Check on this with support. (

I would also check with a good local motor repair shop. I have no idea if your motor can be repaired or what it might cost. You should know.

Occasionally we receive posts inquiring about needing a replacement frame or someone with a shaft rusted frozen to the shaft. If your present shaft and wheel are in good condition, these have value.

Must dash. Keep us posted, and do not hesitate to ask questions.


Knife Sharpening / Re: new diamond wheels D.F. 250
« on: December 05, 2018, 02:53:35 am »

 and we have not tested the compatible diamond wheels with neither water nor the ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate.

To me, this statement reads very differently than stating that we have tested and found the DWF-200 and DWC-200 incompatable with either plain water or a solution of water and ACC. Tormek markets these diamond wheels for the T2 and to be used dry. I have not read anything definitive stating that they will not work with the T4. From my personal experience, I have found them to work very well dry with the T4. I have not tried them wet.

Adding to the confusion, a major vendor of CBN wheels has stated that using his wheels wet voids his warranty. I do not doubt that there is a problem, however, I have been told that the problem only happens when the wheels are left in the water trough for long periods. Will my occasional use and fastidious drying of the wheels cause a problem? I do not know, however, I doubt it.

Tormek purchases diamond wheels from several manufacturers. I have no problem with this. I hope Tormek will eventually switch production of the 200mm wheels to the company which manufactures the wet or dry 250mm grinding wheels. I believe Tormek is missing a good market by not providing diamond wheels for the T4. (Please add a 1200 grit wheel to the line up.) I would be perfectly happy to forego the side of the wheel abrasive in the smaller size.

I agree with Rich Colvin that the DS-250 or DWS-200 325 grit diamond wheels are Tormek's fastest cutting wheels. Surprisingly, I have found that they cut considerably faster than the 220 grit SG wheels. They are the closest thing Tormek has ever sold to a coarse stone. I would much prefer a Tormek coarse stone, diamond or not to using a dry grinder.


Knife Sharpening / Re: new diamond wheels D.F. 250
« on: December 04, 2018, 02:50:07 am »
Interesting question, Steve. I would be more interested in learning how long the diluted solution (ACC) can be used before it stops being effective. To the best of my knowledge, Tormek has not stated this.

I hope Tormek will eventually offer 200 mm diamond grinding wheels which may be used wet with the T4.


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