Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - SharpenADullWitt

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 45
1

I thought this had been brought up before... but I don't see where the T-2 is "NSF Certified".

You are correct, it is not certified.  I do not have any idea if/when they will submit it for that, but based on the prior model and what I have seen on marketing/how/to who sold, it is my belief that it has been designed for it.

2
General Tormek Questions / Re: a peg for Tormek, finally
« on: July 04, 2018, 11:02:31 pm »
Welcome to the forum, Kenc. That's good information about bolt grades. Is there any difference between grades in corrosion resistance?

Ken (S)

I don't know specifics, but I would say yes when it comes to grade 8 (the yellowish coating they have, as they tend to be used on machinery like cars) or stainless.  When I worked in a garage, it was grade 8 for frame work, and if a bolt was screwed up holding down something like the battery tray or an alternator bolt, lower grades were ok.

3
The reason for no water use with the T2 wheels, is your local health departments and :
http://www.nsf.org/consumer-resources/what-is-nsf-certification

The T2 was designed to be run dry, to meet regulatory requirements of the respective countries.  Where you would simply use a light touch, run the knife dry, then buff and then wash/rinse/sanitize. (three step process)  Although based on discussions with some chef's I know, many knives are actually just done via the wash (by hand) rinse, method.
Besides all that, it helps keep knives (a consumable/equipment/tax deduction), sharp, but the tool itself is a consumable/equipment/tax deduction.

4
Knife Sharpening / Re: hunting knife videos
« on: June 24, 2018, 03:58:17 pm »
Misunderstood, or explained badly, to a not target or language speaking audience?

5
General Tormek Questions / Re: parts
« on: June 24, 2018, 03:56:52 pm »
I have been interested in 3d printing for some time.  However I can't afford one that fits my needs (size/prints in metal).
That said, today's 3d printing is at the stage that would equal computers in the early 80's, when there were more competitors and OS's (Apple II, Commodore, 8086).  I expect it to be a lot more useful in 10 to 20.

6
General Tormek Questions / Re: a peg for Tormek, finally
« on: June 24, 2018, 03:49:07 pm »
Picture the head of the bolt and it will let you know.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf

I found this useful for people that haven't yet learned how to read a bolt.
Also, with a long enough bolt, inserted at a slight angle, one wouldn't need the bolt to have a head and it would be more like a tire stud used on some cars (VW for example) to help align and hang the tire, until the first lug is tightened down.  (useful tool for side of road/flat tire changes)

7
General Tormek Questions / Re: T2 video
« on: June 16, 2018, 10:26:51 pm »
Thank you.  Now for the outdoor hunting video.....

8
General Tormek Questions / Re: using diamond wheels
« on: June 16, 2018, 10:24:52 pm »
SADW,

The grit numbers are not the whole story. Working with diamond wheels really is different than working with what Tormek now calls "the original Tormek wheels".

Back to grit size. I have used the coarse grit, 360 grit, more than the other two grits. Both the new 250mm diameter and the T2 version seem to cut the same. I find they cut more aggressively than the SG or SB graded coarse. I do not completely understand why. My guess is that the grains are sharper. They not only start cutting better, they retain that cutting level. (These statements are based on the wheels after preliminary breaking in.)


Ken
I have used the fine that comes with the T2, and it certainly does what it was designed for.  I have some other uses that I expect the coarse would be better suited for. (taking chips out of old blades/tool restoration, and other metal shaping work that may deal with things such as 7075 aluminum)
While the diamond is harder then stone, and the grains I do expect would be sharper (hardness, how shaped both by nature and man), I also expect the binding agent of the stone plays a part.  (as it comes off and sticks via surface tension, it would effectively change the grit/fill in voids, between the grains)
My want, is all three stones, my budget, may only allow for one at a time, hence my wondering and trying to fulfill certain needs.

9
General Tormek Questions / Re: using diamond wheels
« on: June 12, 2018, 05:34:20 am »
Did you get paperwork with these wheels?
What are the grits (particularly the course)?  I tried to find it via the buying site the other day, and didn't.

How do the wheels deal with the water?  I wouldn't expect them to retain it, like a stone wheel, so I am wondering about using a sponge to get off any moisture that you might be trying to save.  (squeeze it into a container that is sitting on something magnetic, so particles get pulled towards the bottom, for reuse of fluid.

10
That is similar to how the local knife shop, has their much larger stone.  I think our T2 converted platform, on the new side bar, could do the same from one side of the wheel.

11
Knife Sharpening / Re: new diamond wheels D.F. 250
« on: May 28, 2018, 03:56:52 pm »
Could anyone tell me please the Tormek diamond wheels technical specifications or where I can read it?

Are they aluminium, steel or something else based?
What diamonds are used: polycrystalline or monocrystalline?
What bonding is: nickel-electroplating or else?
What is the diamond layer thickness?
What warranty they come with - lifetime or ...?


Hello Wootz and the rest of you,

The Tormek Diamond Wheels are constructed with a precision machined steel frame. The frame is coated with a single layer of diamond grit that is electrolytically anchored with nickel. The type of diamond we're using is confidential and cannot be shared publicly. The bonding is, like you (Wootz) is suggesting, nickel-electroplating. The diamond wheels are covered of the general Tormek warranty against peeling.

The life of the wheel is very much related to how it’s used. It is very important to always apply a low pressure when sharpening. If you are sharpening with a new diamond wheel, a very low pressure should be applied. The diamond grits on a new diamond wheel are very sharp and sensitive to high pressure. We also recommend to always use water when sharpening with the diamond wheel, as it prolongs the life of the wheel and provides a finer surface. When you sharpen with water, remember to always use the ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate in the water to prevent rust on the diamond wheel.

Here's a link to the information sheet with all the information: https://www.tormek.com/media/1911657/information-tormek-diamond-wheels-en.pdf

Kind regards,
Marie - Marketing Manager, Tormek

Are the T2 wheels the same manufacture, and would there be benefit to using them with water?
I can say, after getting a T2 that I got to try the other day, it really has put a smile on multiple faces.  Takes as much time to get it out and setup as it does to sharpen a knife that is just starting to get dull, and back to work in under two minutes.

12
Maybe if a few members email expressing some interest...

Advanced Machinery Email  ;)

I bet it wouldn't hurt to CC support at Tormek.  (they need to know there is a want/need as well.

13
Let us know the part number and availability when you hear back.  Thanks

14
General Tormek Questions / Re: Rust inhibitors discussion
« on: May 08, 2018, 04:18:21 pm »
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfEVKoPX2ZQ

I remember there was a discussion some time back and this person was the one linked to/poster in a forum.

15
Do you have a google or Youtube account?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 45