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Messages - RichColvin

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General Tormek Questions / Re: SVD-110
« on: September 24, 2020, 04:53:51 am »
I have 2, and use them often.  Sometimes, I use two together (had to bandsaw a bit off one to do that).

Scissors Sharpening / Re: Garden shears
« on: August 22, 2020, 02:39:17 am »
I have one of those hats!  Got it at the Atlanta AAW symposium from Stig.  (He said I had to wear it the whole conference, so I did.)

Fits nicely, looks great !

General Tormek Questions / Re: One Day with the T-8
« on: August 20, 2020, 07:56:08 pm »
I use a rubber dish drying mat.

I like that the ribs in this one keep the machine out of the water.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: One year with the T-8
« on: August 20, 2020, 07:43:30 pm »

Great job sharpening such a small bit!

And I’m glad the Sharpening Handbook is useful for you.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: One year with the T-8
« on: August 20, 2020, 05:09:57 am »
I'm glad it is working for you, but I don't deserve the credit.  I "borrowed" that one from Rick Kruger.

General Tormek Questions / Re: One year with the T-8
« on: August 16, 2020, 03:06:55 am »
I’ve used a precision pen vice (like the Starrett 166C ) with the Tormek DBS-22 to hold bits as small as #61 (5/128 in. / 1 mm).  Hard to sharpen bits that small, but possible.


General Tormek Questions / Re: Honing wheel
« on: August 15, 2020, 12:16:17 am »
After almost 15 yrs on my Tormek, I still use the leather wheel.  Not a professional, but it works for me.


Ping me in about 5 yrs.  Retiring in 3.5, so should have my new one used up by then.

Kind regards,

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Q4 which jig for plough plane blades
« on: August 05, 2020, 03:55:15 am »

Look around on the UK version of eBay for an SVH-60 Straight Edge Jig.  This is the original that was replaced by the SE-77.  However, it is closer to the Universal Support Bar, so I find it useful for sharpening shorter chisels.  Doesn’t have all the bells and whistles, but useful none the less.

It is one of the few older jigs I recommend seeking.

Kind regards,

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Q3 which jig for a small router
« on: August 02, 2020, 03:50:11 pm »

I checked Leonard Lee’s book, and he offers no advice. 

I would consider sharpening this from the bottom, not the top.  Remember, the leading edge must be lower than the rest, but the overall shape can be convex — flatness is not req’d.  This would allow for holding the shaft in the SVS-50 jig. 

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergrind 2000?
« on: August 02, 2020, 03:41:56 pm »

I am sure you know that, with woodturning tools, it is important to sharpen often.  When stopping to sharpen, having a jig that can be used to easily make the same grind makes that faster, and hence is used. 

The SVD-185 was good, but the setting on the jig (JS) was via aligning an arrow on one side with marks on the other.  That was always imperfect, but it worked.

With the SVD-186, the settings are click-stops.  Really easy to reset it from the ones used for your roughing gouge (JS 6) to a spindle gouge (JS 2).

I’ve documented the settings with the jigs I typically use on

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergrind 1200?
« on: August 01, 2020, 05:20:58 pm »

The 2000 uses the 250mm grindstones whilst the 1200 uses the 200 mm grindstones.

I have the SuperGrind 2000 that I bought in 2002.  I use it to sharpen woodworking tools, and also often use it to sharpen kitchen knives and my wife’s scissors.

I replaced the shaft with the EZ one, replaced the drive wheel after 15 years of use, added the USB with micro adjust, and replaced the truing tool.  Other than I’ve upgraded the jigs as many are worth that.  One especially great upgrade is the SVD-186.  Much better than the SVD-185.

Kind regards,


When I sharpen on grindstones that are 180-200 mm on my T-2000, I use them on turning tools, both wood turning and metal, and on my pocket knives.  I find that the small amount of concavity in the grind is not a real issue.  What is more of an issue is not sharpening often enough.



I would consider two options.  The first is to make a holder that grips the tapered part of the shaft.  If the holder is round like Rick noted, it could be rolled on an SVD-110 Platform.

Alternatively, consider taking the sharpening to the tool.  By that, I mean make a jig that fits into the tool’s bore (where the cut pieces are pushed thru), and has an “umbrella” shape mid way up.  The umbrella would need to be the shape of the area to be sharpened.  That umbrella area would be used to hold a piece of sandpaper for the sharpening.  Finally, the umbrella area would need a projection of some sort to put into a drill for spinning it.  Think of putting a mushroom into the tool, and the underside of the mushroom’s cap would do the sharpening.

Then you would change the grit of the sandpaper to achieve the surface you want. The shaft part that goes into the tool would be the reference surface, so it would need to be pretty close to the internal diameter of the tool. 

This would be easy to make on a metal lathe.

Kind regards,

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