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Topics - Hatchcanyon

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1
General Tormek Questions / Diamond dilemma
« on: February 08, 2019, 06:59:37 pm »
Sorry, I missed the Tormek forum for quite a long time. Reason was that we bought a home and moved. There were a lot of other things to do including to bring up another shop.

But now we are up and running again. And we got an inspiring new view from the shop window.


In the meantime we experienced something strange:
Last year in April we bought one of the new diamond wheels at the woodworking fair in Nuremberg, Germany. They told us delivery might be in June or July. Far away from that what really happened. It needed more that 8 months to get the wheel. It arrived more or less as a "Christmas present".

Does anybody know about reasons? The company from which we bought the wheel told us something about an "overwhelming demand" but for us it looked mmore like a technical problem?

The next day the new sharpening place will be used the first time. I am courious!

Rolf

2
General Tormek Questions / EzyLock
« on: August 13, 2017, 01:24:55 pm »
Recently I had  difficulties changing the stone due to the fact that the EzyLock nut did not open. Only brute force broke it free!

Some "research" showed threads filled with debris (sludge). Cleaning with a Nylon brush. To prevent further problems with the nut I used some copper brake paste. Until that the the nut opens much more easily.

But be warned, the paste can make a mess! Use only a small amount.

Rolf

3
Hand Tool Woodworking / A simple tool for chisel and planer blade setup
« on: October 23, 2016, 02:44:30 pm »
Economic setup tool

In case a bunch of irons should be sharpened with equal edge angles it is easy to economize setup. One has to set height of the Universal Support only once for all irons

 Thic will be achieved that protrusion of the irons over the SE-77 edge is controlled easily.  Setting angle with WM-200 nedds only to be done once for all.

The handmade tool is especially economic in case the irons are sharpened and then polished on the SJ stone. Also there one need to control angle only one time. That means you may sharpen all irons first and polish them lateron. Changing the stone has to be done only once.

Princippally the method is the same as with turning tools and the TTS-100. The TTS-100 doen not fit very good on the SE-77 and the minimum protrusion of 50mm is too large for some irons. Using SE-77 and TTS-100 is nothing good for people with thicker fingers.  ;D


TTS-100 for turning tools


Standard irons may be too short


Seen from the other side

One can see that the clamping part of the SE-77 has a bit of chamfer making a correct setting difficult.

Eventually the absolute amount of protrusion is not critical. It only has to be large enough to lift the SE-77 above the stone. With a edge angle of 25° anything larger than 32 mm will do. For larger angles the number may be decreased.

To conquer these difficulties with the TTS-100 a simple fixture was built from scrap you alway find in the shop. Nothing fancy!


Simple tool to set protrusion

The tool is aligned to the SE-77 outline. The only important thing is that the rabbet is parallel to the bottom.


A dowel secures the jig on top of my workbench


Applying the SE-77


Insertion of the iron


Setup of the WM-200


Setting the right angle

Setting the Universal Supprt to the right height above the wheel the edge angle is set.

Switching to the next iron is simple. Use the jig again and shift the iron down to the table top. You get exactly the same grinding angle as before.

Using the SJ stone for polishing makes the jig even more benefical. Grind and polishing stones may have different diameters. One can sharpen all irons on a SG or SB, then change the stone once and polish all irons in a batch, controlling the setup for polishing only once. (Again with WM-200)

Trying to polish chamfers on a polishing stone different in diameter to the grindstone will not work properly. Only a part of the chamfer will be  polished.


Switching to the SJ stone

The jig is useful for skewed irons too:


Setting a skewed chisel. The edge must rest over its full lenght on the table.


The skewqed chisel will be worked with the same angle than a straight one.

A mix of plane irons, straight  and skewed chisels within one grinding session is possible as long as all edges are intended to get the same angle.

Rolf

4
General Tormek Questions / Are all stones for use with water?
« on: October 15, 2016, 04:25:38 pm »
May I have a question?

I heard about stones/wheels for the Tormek from 3rd party companies like Norton and others. Are all these stones/wheels intended to be uses wet?


5
General Tormek Questions / Turning the machine
« on: September 30, 2016, 04:10:58 pm »
May I ask who turns his Tormek regularely and why?

Having the machine for half a year and sharpening chisels, knives, router irons and turning tools I never had the wish to turn it around, was always comfortable with the stone on the right side.

Rolf

6
General Tormek Questions / When to use which stone?
« on: July 27, 2016, 12:05:12 pm »
After working with the inherited T-7 for 4 month and beeing very impressed what can be done with it there is a question for which I do not have a conclusive answer.

The machine - previously not very often used, more or less new - came with the SG stone. Some time later I complemented it with the SJ stone for better edges. But this was not the ultimative setup for the HSS turning tools my wife uses. To grind these tools more effective we bought the SB stone.

My observation within the last weeks is that I do not use the SG stone anymore. Even if it is said grinding standard tools as plane irons or chisels is not faster on the SB than on the SG I have some doubt about this statement. At last it feels faster on the SB. Another point is that one do not need to change the stones except for the SJ.

Now I wonder if there is any technical argument for using the SG on any grind task? (Ok, it is a bit cheaper.)

Rolf

7
Hand Tool Woodworking / An experiment
« on: June 01, 2016, 05:29:17 pm »
Working the mirror (back) side of iron normally must be done only once.

To eliminate rough scratches or milling marks I use as Tormek recommends the side of the stone. Stone preparation can be done the same way as on the circumference. So I switch from a coarse grit to the finer one.

Bringing the back side to a mirror finisch I used as recommended the leather wheel with honing compound what produces always some mess, slurry. Can this be done less filthy?

I gave another method a try and behold - it works for me without any mess!


Polishing the mirror side on a SJ-wheel

Due to the fact that the SJ-wheel is very reluctant to remove steel one must not fear a modification of the mirror side. It works more or less similar to the leather wheel. An additional advantage for me is no rounding of the edge due to sinking into the leather. (Yes you can round the edge too with this method!)

The result:

Mirror side

The Millimeter graduations shows a deep scratch in the iron resulting from an earlier not very sensitive modification.

Rolf

8
General Tormek Questions / First results
« on: May 26, 2016, 11:43:59 am »
As a newbie on machine sharpening - we, my wife and me - own a T 7 for 2 month. We both are no professionals simply hobbyists. She is turning, I like to construct jigs and shop equipment, sometimes some furniture.

Some pictures from the results of using the T 7:




Chisels polished with the SJ stone


24mm chisel machined with the SG stone


Same 24 mm chisel after using the SJ stone (sorry about some blur)




Same iron other perspective

Using a paper kitchen towel for cleaning the iron invariably leaves particles on the irons surface.


Backside - could be better

After sharpening this chisel with a setting of 25° - actually after calculating the hollow grinding it comes out as only 23° - I used the iron on a piece  of Douglas Fir, damaging the edge with the first cut....


Douglas Fir


Damaged edge


regrinded to 30° - actually about 28°. That works well on the fir!


Grinding a short spoke shave iron


The sharpening workplace

Rolf

9
General Tormek Questions / DVD 2.0
« on: May 21, 2016, 12:54:33 pm »
We got a DVD with the T7 with some video sequences in a folder named VIDEO_TS. Another folder named "AUDIO_TS" is completely empty.

On out computer - Windows 10 - none of the data files on the disc ( . VOB, .IFO, .BUP) are playable. what may be the reason?

Rolf

10
I'm relatively new with the Tormek T-7. My wife started turning some month ago, asked me after some time for help sharpening the tools. There was a set of Japanese water stones from grid 120 to 8000 but these are in my opinion not very effective with turning tools. The simple bench grinder did more harm than good.

Then wo got a T-7 with the standard grindstone. Learning that this might not be the best stone for HSS steel we bought an additional SB-250. Works very well.

But it seems to influence the Stone Grader. After some uses - 5 to 8 times maybe - on the SB the Grader becomes quite slick, doesn't do a good job on reactivating the stone. A closer look showed a modification of the Graders surface. In the middle the grains are flattened reflecting light while the grain more to the end are still coarse.


The middle of the stone shows flattened grains


Magnified

What is going wrong and how can I get the SB stone back to a fresh fast cutting surface without truing?

Thanks for any help and advice.
Rolf

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