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Messages - Ken S

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Wood Turning / Re: video that CB sent me
« on: Yesterday at 10:43:31 pm »
I am pleased to know that I am not the only forum member looking around the Internet for new information.
Good find, CB.


Wood Turning / Re: myford ml8
« on: Yesterday at 10:40:23 pm »
Welcome to the forum, Jorgen.

This forum is primarily about sharpening with the Tormek. The turning portion is primarily oriented toward wood turners. I do know that several of our members have some machine shop experience, and may be able to assist you. I did a google search and found the website for the Myford Company. They seem like your best source.

Good luck in your search.

Best regards,


Wood Turning / Re: myford ml8
« on: Yesterday at 10:35:28 pm »
Hi! Hope anyone here can help me, I haven´t had any luck on the net yet... Has anyone any experience with the myford ml8 lathe?  I would love to see a video of someone lubricating the spindle ... a link would do just fine! And the alignment of the centre line between the head and tail, is it really ment to be so bad ...?   / Jörgen

Wood Turning / video that CB sent me
« on: Yesterday at 04:55:49 pm »
CB sent me this instagram covering using the BGM _100 with a dry grinder and CBN wheel. It clearly demonstrates the process.

This procedure obviously works. However, my personal preference is to use the 180 grit CBN wheel directly in the Tormek. If I did not own a Tormek, I would go the BGM route. It provides the consistency and repeatability of the Tormek jigs, insuring that a minimum of steel is removed in sharpening.

Thanks, CB.



Wood Carving / Re: Sharpening the chisel with SJ
« on: Yesterday at 03:28:37 am »
At the risk of sounding like me, I would suggest mastering the use of the leather honing wheel for removing the burr on both the bevel and back of a chisel before looking for other options. This would not be a problem for those who decided to use my practice chisels suggestion, the first post in the general Tormek section. I am not sayiny that the leather honinh wheel is the only or best way, or that there is anything wrong with other methods. I am merely stating my belief in mastering the standard method before looking elsewhere. For those who have really mastered the leather honing wheel and are unsatisfied, please keep looking for options.

In my opinion, any procedures beyond the SJ and burr removal are generally overkill. In fact, I think for general woodworking, the SG coarse and fine, plus the leather honing wheel is quite adequate. You posted this in woodcarving, so perhaps you mean delicate carving chisels instead of bench chisels. I am not a carver; sharpening standards for carving chisels may be more demanding than for cabinetmaking.

Paper wheels are designed to be used at high speed to melt the wax of the compound. Especially with thin carving tools, it is easy to overheat the tool. Because of the heat issue, the only power tool I would recommend would be the Tormek.

The side of the wheel became more difficult to use when Tormek upgraded to the new safety switch. Those with the older switch can use a foot switch and have more control placing the back of the chisel against the back of the chisel. I still believe a ceramic stone is the most practical solution.


Knife Sharpening / Re: The one change you should make to the Tormek...
« on: January 14, 2018, 09:48:10 pm »
Looking back at the fifth photo in the original post of this topic (showing the stop collar), I have thought about modifying a stop collar. Replacement parts only cost ten dollars US. A piece of half inch or twelve mm dowel could be chucked into a lathe, metal or wood. Using a skew chisel or similar tool, the radiused face could be cut down to the desired diameter and smoothed. This would work like a stop collar and retain the screw adjustment of the regular Tormek jig. It should be a very quick and easy project for anyone with a lathe. Doing it with a drill press would be doable, but laborious.


Wood Carving / Re: Sharpening the chisel with SJ
« on: January 14, 2018, 09:24:24 pm »
Good question.

If you are very careful, you should be able to use the leather honngwheel. To be successful requires care and skill.

I learned another method from Ernie Conover which may work better, especially for those who are unsure of their skill with the leather honing wheel. Leave the chisel in the jig and set the angle with the leather honing wheel. Use the leather honing wheel to polish the bevel

With the chisel still in the jig, remove the jig from the support bar. I keep a small very fine ceramic bench stone with my Tormek. Turn the chisel over and rest the back on the ceramic stone. Touch the middle of the chisel lightly against the ceramic stone and then lower the angle until the chisel rests evenly on the stone. Rub it a few strokes. Then go back and forth between the bevel on the leather wheel with the chisel still in the jig and the chisel flat on the back.

This procedure is only a bit slower, but is very controlled. The ceramic stone should remain flatter than a water stone.


Knife Sharpening / Re: The one change you should make to the Tormek...
« on: January 14, 2018, 05:26:43 am »

At the risk of sounding nice, your photography is first-rate. Keep up the good work!



Knife Sharpening / Re: santoku informational review
« on: January 14, 2018, 05:21:21 am »
My thoughts, exactly. I did not start sharpening knives seriously I was into my sixties. (I'm an old chisel sharpener.) There is a lot I do not know about knives. I find these videos informative.

One unexpected side effect of all this is realizing that I need a second knife block.


Knife Sharpening / santoku informational review
« on: January 14, 2018, 12:41:04 am »
This seems informative.  Enjoy.


That's why I have a reset, disagree with CB button on my computer to return to the default.  :)


Knife Sharpening / Re: The one change you should make to the Tormek...
« on: January 13, 2018, 04:23:00 pm »
The design of the adjustable stop (collar) has puzzled me for a long time. Like most of us, my first exposure to knife sharpening with the Tormek was watching Jeff Farris' video. He specifically stated that he lifted the knife for the tip; he did not rotate it. If so, why does the adjustable stop have a radius along the outside? Wouldn't a flat plane work better?

I realize different styles of knives may have different requirements. In that case, wouldn't a knife jig with interchangeable threaded stops be better? The multi jig has this feature. This is a situation where I wish I had machinist skills.

The Tormek design seems a well balanced general design. We would like more specific solutions.



Something is not right; you and I are in complete agreement!  :)


I noticed some scratches on one of my knives last evening. It is the santoku I have reground with only a single 15º bevel on the left side. (I am left handed.) I now have more knives in my kitchen than slots in my knife block, so this knife resides in a drawer, I should say, with embarrassment, carelessly placed in the drawer. I have not noticed scratches on the knives I keep in my knnife block.


Knife Sharpening / Re: US400 Extended Universal support
« on: January 12, 2018, 05:37:50 pm »
Quick update from Affinity Tool via Steve:

The container from Sweden is due to arrive in Michigan on 1/25. Affinity should ship directly to us once they arrive.


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