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Messages - RichColvin

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Ping me in about 5 yrs.  Retiring in 3.5, so should have my new one used up by then.

Kind regards,

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Q4 which jig for plough plane blades
« on: August 05, 2020, 03:55:15 am »

Look around on the UK version of eBay for an SVH-60 Straight Edge Jig.  This is the original that was replaced by the SE-77.  However, it is closer to the Universal Support Bar, so I find it useful for sharpening shorter chisels.  Doesn’t have all the bells and whistles, but useful none the less.

It is one of the few older jigs I recommend seeking.

Kind regards,

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Q3 which jig for a small router
« on: August 02, 2020, 03:50:11 pm »

I checked Leonard Lee’s book, and he offers no advice. 

I would consider sharpening this from the bottom, not the top.  Remember, the leading edge must be lower than the rest, but the overall shape can be convex — flatness is not req’d.  This would allow for holding the shaft in the SVS-50 jig. 

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergrind 2000?
« on: August 02, 2020, 03:41:56 pm »

I am sure you know that, with woodturning tools, it is important to sharpen often.  When stopping to sharpen, having a jig that can be used to easily make the same grind makes that faster, and hence is used. 

The SVD-185 was good, but the setting on the jig (JS) was via aligning an arrow on one side with marks on the other.  That was always imperfect, but it worked.

With the SVD-186, the settings are click-stops.  Really easy to reset it from the ones used for your roughing gouge (JS 6) to a spindle gouge (JS 2).

I’ve documented the settings with the jigs I typically use on

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: Supergrind 1200?
« on: August 01, 2020, 05:20:58 pm »

The 2000 uses the 250mm grindstones whilst the 1200 uses the 200 mm grindstones.

I have the SuperGrind 2000 that I bought in 2002.  I use it to sharpen woodworking tools, and also often use it to sharpen kitchen knives and my wife’s scissors.

I replaced the shaft with the EZ one, replaced the drive wheel after 15 years of use, added the USB with micro adjust, and replaced the truing tool.  Other than I’ve upgraded the jigs as many are worth that.  One especially great upgrade is the SVD-186.  Much better than the SVD-185.

Kind regards,


When I sharpen on grindstones that are 180-200 mm on my T-2000, I use them on turning tools, both wood turning and metal, and on my pocket knives.  I find that the small amount of concavity in the grind is not a real issue.  What is more of an issue is not sharpening often enough.



I would consider two options.  The first is to make a holder that grips the tapered part of the shaft.  If the holder is round like Rick noted, it could be rolled on an SVD-110 Platform.

Alternatively, consider taking the sharpening to the tool.  By that, I mean make a jig that fits into the tool’s bore (where the cut pieces are pushed thru), and has an “umbrella” shape mid way up.  The umbrella would need to be the shape of the area to be sharpened.  That umbrella area would be used to hold a piece of sandpaper for the sharpening.  Finally, the umbrella area would need a projection of some sort to put into a drill for spinning it.  Think of putting a mushroom into the tool, and the underside of the mushroom’s cap would do the sharpening.

Then you would change the grit of the sandpaper to achieve the surface you want. The shaft part that goes into the tool would be the reference surface, so it would need to be pretty close to the internal diameter of the tool. 

This would be easy to make on a metal lathe.

Kind regards,

Contact Steve Bottorff. His web site is  Steve lives in Northern Ohio and may be able to hook you up.

General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek for primary bevels
« on: July 25, 2020, 12:53:46 pm »

I have no doubt that Mike Pekovich's method will produce fine edges. I used bench stones myself for many years.
I would say that it is not the only good method. Using secondary micro bevels is a logical expedient for reducing the manual labor in using bench stones. Using a Tormek, the electrically powered Tormek handles the labor, not the sharpener. I don't see the need for secondary bevels when using a Tormek.

On a practical level, the wood doesn't know if a sharp edge was produced by a Tormek+ bench stones or all done by a Tormek. Both methods will achieve the intended purpose. I think the real key for sharp edges is stopping to resharpen when the first sign of dulling appears rather than by soldiering on with a dull tool.

I believe the well trained woodworker should be fluent with both methods, and work with whichever best suits his needs and preference for the task at hand. The decision should not be totally either or.



General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek, sharpening turning tools
« on: July 25, 2020, 12:51:26 pm »

I generally use Sorby turning tools, and have documented the information I believe you are seeking on the Sharpening Handbook.  It is available as an online tool for free at

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek for primary bevels
« on: July 20, 2020, 03:53:51 am »

Mike Pekovich at Fine Woodworking is an advocate for using the Tormek to sharpen chisels and plane blades for the primary grind and water stones for the secondary grind.  And Mike is an excellent woodworker whose opinion I value.

But consider that you will be sharpening other tools and water stones may not be needed.  You can use the base Tormek system to sharpen wood carving and wood turning tools.  At most, you may consider using the Japanese grindstone.

And sharpening drill bits is something to also consider.  There are those who advocate buying new brad point bits when the old ones wear out.  I find that to be wasteful and unnecessary.  It is also a bad approach for woods which have tearful problems.  Sharpening a bit to a very fine sharpness makes drilling holes in burls especially more pleasant.  And a sharp bit is less likely to cause heat problems in very hard woods like ebony.

So adding a Tormek to your tool bag will be a useful investment that you will find worthwhile.

Good luck,

General Tormek Questions / Re: online video class thoughts
« on: July 13, 2020, 12:35:55 pm »

I cataloged them at the bottom of this page

Kind regards,

Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpening Calculations
« on: July 13, 2020, 04:20:48 am »

From my research and readings I have come to believe that the exact angle only matters in two circumstances.
  • Cutting tools used in metal work, especially lathe work.  Leo J. St. Clair did a lot of research and found that the angle change of 1 or 2 degrees made very real differences in the work required to perform the activity (Design and Use of Cutting Tools, 1952).
  • Knives used by butchers.  Dr. Vadim Kraichuk also did a lot of research to show the best angle for knives used by butchers.  But these are professionals who get their knives sharpened on a regular period (weekly, I believe).

But, for things like wood turning, the angle matters less than the frequent resharpening of the tool.  And, I find the same is true with other items like my pocket knives.  Sharpen more and worry less about the angle.

As for my kitchen knives, well it probably matters more that my wife cuts on the stone countertops or plastic cutting boards than the angle of the blade.

But, this is just one man’s opinion.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: What to do with my new found T4?
« on: July 05, 2020, 03:33:22 pm »

I too live in the Columbus, Ohio area.  If you are looking to sell your T-4, I will be happy to buy it from you.

But do consider keeping it to extend the life of your T-8 stones.  There is more information at this link:

I sent CB my worn down stones that no longer work on the T-2000.  My T-2000 uses the same 250mm sized grindstones as the T-8, but these were worn down to 180mm.  He uses them on his T-4.  He should get another 50-60% of use from those stones.

Kind regards,

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