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Messages - cbwx34

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Knife Sharpening / Re: TormekCalc2 - Advanced grinding calculator
« on: Yesterday at 11:17:15 pm »
I did, hoping he will answer soon :)

Hang in there... worth the wait! :)

Knife Sharpening / Re: TormekCalc2 - Advanced grinding calculator
« on: October 17, 2021, 04:29:08 pm »
There seems to be a password to download the new version.

Where can I get the code?


Send a message to jvh.

General Tormek Questions / Re: New user intro
« on: October 15, 2021, 04:11:16 pm »
Various methods can be used.

   Do you have a belt sander or a buddy with one? The "slack"  portion can put a convex shape  on your axe then as stated above the edge can be done by other means.


Knife Sharpening / Re: Another idea for pivoting the knife jigs
« on: October 14, 2021, 12:26:57 am »
In order to match the jig to the curvature of the knife tip, the length of the jig should be variable, equa; to the radius of the curvature, and in any case longer than it is now. ;)

When Dutchman speaks, I listen. Until 2002, all the Tormek knife jigs were longer. Apparently, there was a problem with some users leaning on the longer jigs, so they were redesigned to their present length. The earlier jigs were around 40 mm longer, including longer threaded shafts. They also used locking screws.

I wanted a longer jig with a threaded shaft for small paring knives to reach 139mm Projection with the kenjig. I found two of them on ebay. Even though they are twenty years out of production, they show up occasionally.


I don't disagree with this, but I believe you can also adjust it by how far or close you clamp the "belly to tip" area, in relation to the clamp.

General Tormek Questions / Re: Homemade pivot collar for knife jig
« on: October 14, 2021, 12:23:54 am »
Just posted on another topic an alternative to this.
Wouldn't it be easier for those who haven't the financial condition just to turn 2 wood "knobs" and round their base so it can pivot.
I made (I tried at least) my own version of it. Made 2 wood "knobs". One flat and one rounded for the exact purpose of this topic :)
Although it does not worth the effort making the whole version of the SVM-45, it totally worths just turning the 2 knobs.

Cheapest (I think) is probably a shaft collar I posted before...

You can also cut the sides off the stock collar (some examples in this thread)....

But if you have the skill and tools, your examples look good!  :)

Scissors Sharpening / Re: A Different Technique
« on: October 13, 2021, 08:01:16 pm »

Do you which app he uses with this technique?   :)


That would be the "Rock Scissor Paper" app...

General Tormek Questions / Re: Homemade pivot collar for knife jig
« on: October 13, 2021, 03:00:19 pm »
It also seems to me that the pivot collar solves the annoying tendancy of the stock collar to rotate, changing the projection length.

I wrapped some painters tape on the jig, then screwed the stop collar on over it, to avoid this (when I used the stock collar).

General Tormek Questions / Re: Homemade pivot collar for knife jig
« on: October 13, 2021, 02:53:25 pm »
This looks interesting, but I'm not exactly sure I understand what it does... Is this just a more stable version of the built-in handle? Or does it help with the end stroke where you need to pivot up for the knife tip? Is there a video of one of these in action?

Ton of info in this thread.... worth the read (but start on p.5 if you just want the reason behind the smaller collar).

I don't know the answer; however, I just sent support a screen shot of your reply. Support works Monday through Friday. We should have an answer this coming week. I, too, am curious to learn the answer.

Last time this came up, Tormek wouldn't say....

General Tormek Questions / Re: Homemade pivot collar for knife jig
« on: October 09, 2021, 07:09:38 pm »
Antz, It looks like it would be about $75 for me to make this collar today. Do you think the 316L was worth it?

Pivot collars are nice, but just using a shaft collar like this one...

... works well.  I have a pivot collar, but put the shaft collar on a while ago to take a picture, and never even switched back.  In most cases, works just fine.

All you need is something that reduces the width of the stock collar.

Knife Sharpening / Re: Scandi sharpening
« on: October 06, 2021, 09:15:21 pm »
Add me to the... how does it work?  I'm guessing similar to my 4-Stop Collar setup, but you can't rotate it? 

But I don't see why it's needed specifically for Scandi grinds?  ???


In my view, if you cannot afford a belt grinder, you cannot afford a diamond wheel(s) AND, the latter may not even meet your need. 


I agree... I would invest in a belt grinder first.

Take a look at SteveB's video on the subject...  Equipment: Belt Sander... which he uses along with a Tormek.

But as I said before, also look at improving your results on the stock wheel first.

I find that it takes a very long time to do anything more than modest regrinding the apex of a knife.

If I have to change the overall curve of a knife edge it takes very long.
Also after I use my bench grinder to grind off the part of a solid bolster left behind from many previous grinds( the swale), then it also takes a long time to reshape the curve of the edge.

So I think a coarser grit wheel would be faster?
Are the diamond wheel the only option or are there stone wheel that are appropriate?

One thing I learned is to not sharpen on the Tormek like you would a belt sander or grinder.  Leaving the knife on the stone longer (since it's water cooled) makes the grinding go alot quicker.

Also, if you don't already, it's worth it to learn to freehand sharpen on the wheel to make some repairs.

And if you're reshaping an edge, try doing it at a much higher angle, (freehand or with a jig), then when it's where you want, lower it and sharpen in an new edge at the appropriate angle.  This also speeds up the process.

General Tormek Questions / Re: hollow grinding
« on: October 04, 2021, 05:20:59 am »

Your point is well made. On a practical level, Tormek users have been successfully sharpening chisels for half a century with their "hollow grind" wheels. That may  not carry much argumentative weight with some of our more technical members; however, it suffices for this Neanderthal.     :)


The problem isn't the hollow grind though, it's his advice on how to deal with it, by either honing it away, or sharpening at a higher angle?  Both unnecessary IMO, and kinda defeats the advantages of a lower angle?

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