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Messages - SharpenADullWitt

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Knife Sharpening / Re: The learning curve...
« on: April 28, 2018, 05:17:04 pm »
Maybe someday, this forum will have an option that so many others do.  Either subscribe or bookmark threads, so that one can refer/return to them later.


Tried via the search to see if any link to the video was posted.  Did this video happen and if so, where the heck is it?

General Tormek Questions / Re: Used Supergrind 2000 value?
« on: April 17, 2018, 07:27:15 pm »
Slanted front, means it should also have the sticker that gives you an idea (if you forget a tape measure) how big the wheel is.
That model became the T-7 when they changed the shaft to Stainless steel.  A year or two later (approx) they changed the shaft again, to the quick release model (the upgrade that is purchasable now). 
Check to see if it runs (they certainly should be able to prove that), and see if there are signs of rust around the wheel.  You could (if they allow examination), remove the nut and wheel on the opposite side and pull the shaft out with the grinding wheel on, and see if it seems stuck to the shaft.  (common, but makes it worth less, or could be brought up to make competitors think less of it)
If it is stuck, you could just use it as is, until you need/get the next wheel, then upgrade both the shaft and replace the bushings at the same time.
See the video on Youtube labeled Tormek upgrades: EzyLock and AWT-250
Just for square frame/history:

I do wonder about those that didn't upgrade the support bar, as most that I have observed, seemed to be/have turners tools/attachments for it, where they set the bar with other methods.  The threaded bar (which at least one member here, threaded his existing bar with a die), is more for hand tools/knives and such.  That may not be a big thing for your uses.
Take a picture of the tool kits, so you can spot the accessories if they are sold separately, which is another auctioneers trick to raise more money.

General Tormek Questions / Re: Used Supergrind 2000 value?
« on: April 16, 2018, 04:41:56 pm »
Some years back now, I beat the norm by buying a Supergrind and all the turning components and spare wheel for $188.
Mine is the version that has the same shape as the T-7, not the earlier square version.  I wonder which style frame the one your looking at has, as the square version could have clearance issues with some tools and that front mount.  Is there rust on the shaft and stone?  Any other tools with it?
Auctions tend to go one of two ways, but personally I don't see this as the "bare tool" to be worth more then $250, while they are routinely priced at a LOT more then that.

I would be interested in seeing axes done.  I have had success with hatchets, but not with axes and those two to three foot handles.

I use superlube and there should be an initial greasing of the shaft as well as oil the leather wheel before the first use.  This is where the older Jeff Farris video's shined, as he originally included a bit of oil and grease years ago, with his units as a setup kit.  I haven't seen the current T8 setup video, so I don't know what they include.
As a home user, I have to grease mine once a year.  Maybe Steve will chime in with how often he had to grease his portable units.

One reason for the thrift store recommendation is to learn/practice Steve's by hand technique.
One other thing that I think would be a good item to have is a ceramic hone.  I was asked to sharpen some knives by my friends restaurant recently.  I took them home, cleaned them and ran them over the leather wheel then the hone.  That was all they needed and my friend found out the hard way, how sharp they were. (cut himself without noticing)

Now I bought them the T4 and for their uses, they are excited at how easy it is and it saves me some time. (and I get to play with it)
Enjoy your time with the new toy.

I would also recommend Steve's book/course, and make a recommendation of hitting up thrift shops in your area (garage sales as well) for old knives/tools.  You could practice on them and then have them for sale, as a reminder for people to bring their stuff for sharpening.

Knife Sharpening / Re: What Angle Is This Knife Sharpened At?
« on: April 07, 2018, 08:08:33 pm »
Try the OUTSIDE of the anglemaster.  What angle does it fit, divide in half.

The answer is in the question... no measuring needed.  ;)
No, no measuring needed, because it is already set.  That doesn't mean I don't think some future reader will get the idea this is the way you are supposed to use it. ;)

Knife Sharpening / Re: What Angle Is This Knife Sharpened At?
« on: April 07, 2018, 06:43:17 pm »
Try the OUTSIDE of the anglemaster.  What angle does it fit, divide in half.

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to maintain the leather honing wheel?
« on: April 04, 2018, 04:06:12 pm »
Fernando, the hot water heaters put out hot water normally in the range of 120 to 140 degree's F.  It is mixed at the faucet to bring it down to a temperature that one is comfortable with, that is much lower then what would affect the tempering of a knife.
I am wondering if your confusing 120 (where is that degree symbol again) F, with 120 C?

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to maintain the leather honing wheel?
« on: April 04, 2018, 03:57:28 pm »
Mineral oil is also used on cutting boards, so it is something good to have around for both uses.  (I know it is also the oil/lube recommended for the Hobart slicer my friends restaurant uses)

General Tormek Questions / Re: New Portable Tormek
« on: April 02, 2018, 04:51:19 am »
I want to see Ken demo this.

How did you inspect the play in the bushings?  Were you able to get the stone off the shaft?
If your able to get it off and you think you need bushings, consider the shaft upgrade with the EZ nut.  (WELL worth it)
The bushings and the shaft should be lubed once a year (probably more if used a lot with the non stainless shaft).  While any grease should do, I believe white lithium was what was originally recommended.  I however use a food grade approved grease that is inexpensive and I picked up as Snap on uses it in their ratchets.  (Super Lube)  One tube should last a long time as is inexpensive, as well as available at some building centers, and a few other places.
As you learned you should always fill the water trough and let it run a bit.
Also on those older models, they do not have a magnet in the tray.  The newer ones have a place for a magnet, the older ones I have seen a magnet inside a small ziplock bag, or gluing magnets on the outside of the water tray.  Both have pro's and con's.  I think if I obtained a new to me, older unit, now what I might do is glue some metal onto the tray and place a magnet on it.  This would allow me to pull the magnet off and watch the metal fall into the trash can easier.

General Tormek Questions / Re: "let the abrasive do the work"
« on: March 30, 2018, 04:48:36 pm »
There are two types of knives, Forged, which tend to be thicker, and stamped, which tend to be thinner.  Forged knives, generally have scales on them (the handles) and a lot of health departments are getting away from scales (already got away from wood/porous handles).  The rivet locations are "another potential problem, source.
Stamped knives are common in both low end and high end.  Their handles are plastic in nature, with various gripping textures and you can find them in your local warehouse stores, to knife shops (think the Victorinox knife that gets such high ratings).  They are thinner then the forged ones, and lighter weight.  Like a kerf on a saw blade, they allow less waster, where the forged knives might give you more heft for tougher cutting.

The bevel of the knife.  With a full size Tormek, I could create enough bevel, to have a secondary bevel via the buffing wheel.  With the T2, I was not pressing down, but letting the wheel do the work, where the bevel was smaller.  When I get some more knives, I will have to try pressing down some, and see if I could increase the bevel, so their is a pronounced spot where the secondary bevel would be.

Thanks for the link, I watched the video and my first reaction was "they are running these in water?".
Then I realized the water is more of a heat sink for the tool and to take away metal particles.  But is something required to use water with these wheels?  (additive) or does this recommend/require distilled water?  Will that affect the wheel (cleaning, or substrait rusting) ?
Also one image of the video, makes me want to see the finish of the extra fine wheel, compared to the SJ wheel.  I am now starting to think the EF wheel might be the better value.

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