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Messages - RichColvin

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16
Wood Turning / Re: Why is skew chisel taking soooo long to sharpen?
« on: October 29, 2019, 12:03:37 am »
Gareth,

I probably have the same one :  a Robert Sorby oval skew. 

This is not uncommon.  The reason is this :  there is a lot of surface area to be ground, especially for shallow included angles like 30° (vs. a bowl gouge).  And this large surface area is what takes so long.

What I have found to accelerate getting it to the next level is holding the gouge against the grindstone (using my right hand) whilst also holding the stone grader (SP-650) against the grindstone (in my left hand).  That keeps the grindstone's surface rough and makes for this process happening faster.  It will sound like you are adding sand to the process.

But, once you get a smooth surface across the whole area, you'll need to set the stone grader down and go from there.


Of course, there is always the option to use the course grit diamond grindstone ... but that is a very different cost option.

Kind regards,
Rich

17
General Tormek Questions / Re: First chisel sharpening.
« on: October 27, 2019, 05:31:47 pm »
Richard,

I bought a BGM-100 (https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/accessories/other-accessories/bgm-100-bench-grinder-mounting-set/ ) so I could use my traditional grinder for gross shaping / metal removal.  Works well as the standard Tormek jigs can be used for that, & then sharpen on the Tormek machine.

I also found that the course diamond wheel makes light work of this.  But that’s a much different cost than the BGM-100.

Kind regards,
Rich

18
Wood Turning / Re: Stu Batty 40/40 grind
« on: October 26, 2019, 06:57:02 pm »
I’ve used the Ellsworth grind for years, and have seen limitations for the type of turning I do.  Especially as I make basic shapes on my traditional lathe so that I can finish the work on my rose engine lathe. 

So, I’m going to regrind one of my bowl gouges to be a 40/40 grind and try it.

One of the arguments Stuart made that helped me decide this way is that 40° requires less pressure to cut.


And, I agree :  the SVD-186 is definitely worth the money, even if you already have the SVD-185!

Kind regards,
Yes

19
Wood Turning / Re: Stu Batty 40/40 grind
« on: October 26, 2019, 04:40:56 pm »
Stuart Batty presented at our woodturning club this past week.  He graciously reviewed what I’d put on the Sharpening Handbook regarding bowl gouges. 

         http://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-BowlGouge.html

One really key insight he provided is in the intro on that page:

Quote
Guidelines below can be taken with two approaches :
  • Sharpening for a workflow which uses a single bowl gouge - consider the shape used by artists whose work you admire (e.g., the "Ellsworth grind" if you wish to pursue work like David Ellsworth).
  • Sharpening for a workflow which uses multiple bowl gouges - consider the 40/40 grind for one, and a much higher α for the other (i.e., for using the second bowl gouge for the inside bottom of the bowl).

And I think that is a huge point for what angle you choose. 

I’d love feedback.

Kind regards,
Rich

20
Ega is probably right.  Andrew Hunter has this article/video on the same :  https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/02/02/tapping-japanese-plane-blade-andrew-hunter

I have some information here :  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-Chisels-Japanese.html

Kind regards,
Rich

21
General Tormek Questions / Re: Japanese SJ-200 Wheel Issue
« on: October 17, 2019, 10:35:46 pm »
I find that the SJ wheel is usually sufficient.  Sometimes it makes sense to make a pass (or two) across the honing wheel also, but not that often.

22
Knife Sharpening / Re: Frontal Vertical Base
« on: October 17, 2019, 09:23:58 pm »
Rick beat me to the punch :  I wondered the same thing.

23
Scissors Sharpening / Re: must have items
« on: October 17, 2019, 03:37:54 pm »
One thing I have heard often is that shears for cutting hair, especially those for professionals, are best sharpened with specialized machines.  I have never attempted to sharpen such tools, but I will defer to those far more experience than I (e.g., Steve Bottorff) who advocate such approaches.

The Tormek is a great all-around sharpening system, but may not be the best for such a specialized purpose.  I think this just supports the value of the Tormek system though :  it is great for an all-around system and can sharpen a wide range of tools.  But for very specialized areas, there may be a different approach needed.

Kind regards,
Rich


24
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over
« on: October 17, 2019, 03:17:25 am »
Rick B,
   I definitely would try out the TT-50 you have.
   If you have not read the following thread, I think you will find it interesting.

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3647.0

   I am nowhere close to being an an expert on the subject, but I think as long as the diamond cluster cutter protrudes beyond it's holder a little, it should work. That excludes substantial damage to the TT-50 unit that might happen if you drive a Mack truck over it. ;)

I’m with Eldon.  Unless you have the old ADV-50D diamond truing tool, use the TT-50 that you already have. 

Rich

25
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over
« on: October 17, 2019, 03:15:04 am »
If you look at the parts breakdown for the T-7, the micro adjust nut with scale is #66 and is $7.95 from Advanced Machinery in Delaware.

Or, just mark it with numbers 1 thru 6.  If you want to get fancy, use a protractor and draw lines every 60° around the circle. 

Rich

26
General Tormek Questions / Re: Japanese SJ-200 Wheel Issue
« on: October 17, 2019, 03:08:38 am »
I have tried both methods and can categorically state that the SJ wheel makes for a better edge than the honing wheel alone.  This is especially true for carving and bench woodworking tools. 

For turning tools, it is better to resharpen often on the SB or SG grindstone (and hone or use the SJ stone only for finishing cuts).

Certainly the SJ is an investment and should be considered thusly.  But I think it is a very different tool than the leather honing wheel.

Kind regards,
Rich

27
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over
« on: October 16, 2019, 01:18:02 am »
Rick,

You have a great point.  I bought my Tormek 2000 in December 2002, and only replaced the shaft in June 2016.  With only one grindstone, it is less critical; however you should consider one at a later date.  It is definitely worthwhile when you have more than one grindstone.

And I can honestly tell you that the investment in the SVD-186 has much greater value than the new shaft change.  For the wood turner, the SVD-186 is a significant leap forward from the -185.  And, you can re-purpose the -185 for sharpening carbide bits.  I do that for my hollowing tool.

Oh, and as for the wheel damage, don't worry about that.  Once you put the grindstone in place and true it, you won't even know there was any damage.

Good luck,
Rich

28
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over
« on: October 15, 2019, 02:00:52 am »
Rick,

The SB-250 is good for all tools with harder steels.  Many knife sharpeners use it also. 

But you are right, the SG grindstone works well.

Kind regards,
Rich 

29
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind - Starting Over
« on: October 13, 2019, 11:37:38 pm »
Rick,

Here’s the summary of grindstones I compiled : 

http://sharpeninghandbook.info/Grindstones.html

Kind regards,
Rich

30
General Tormek Questions / Re: Retired my old SB grindstone
« on: October 13, 2019, 04:00:26 pm »
Well, like so many of us, my old SB stone failed at retirement.  CB from the forum reached out to me and requested both my old stones for his T-4.  I was happy to see them no longer gathering dust in my shop, and sent them to him.

As CB noted to me, “they are working like a champ”.   Glad to see these stones will continue to provide many years of great service.

Kind regards,
Rich

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