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Messages - RichColvin

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General Tormek Questions / Re: Application wet grinding machine
« on: May 01, 2020, 04:15:39 pm »

It can probably be done, but you would need to experiment with different grinding stones to see what works best.  My initial thought is that the diamond grindstone would be best, but I don't know what your needs are.

As for making the process very repeatable, jigs can be made, and many have been already. 

RickKrung on the forum has used motors to automate the truing of the grindstone (that was about a yr or so ago).

If you go about automating movement, consider using a stepper motor.  They give great torque at low speeds, and can be slowed more easily that a variable frequency drive.  They are also smaller and less expensive than geared motors.  For my rose engine lathe, I often run mine at speeds measured in minutes per revolution.

Stepper motors can be controlled using a controller like one from Pololu Tic.  And a rotary encoder can be used to easily control the speed.  Or it could be fixed with the Pololu's settings.

Some links to get started with that are:
Good luck.


I've been adding the Tormek Sharpening classes that Sèbastien and Wolfgang created to the Sharpening Handbook.  As each appeared, I've added it of the related pages (#1 to the knife pages, etc.).

As noted by others, these are really great for the beginner, and offer various nuggets of wisdom for even the experienced sharpener.  Thusly, I've also added them to the Resources page


These are worth cataloging so they can be quickly re-found and re-watched.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: New Guy, Old Gear Snagged
« on: April 22, 2020, 03:49:21 am »
Please let us know how it goes.

Knife Sharpening / Re: Differential bevels
« on: April 20, 2020, 03:09:05 am »
I am interested in the eccentric bushing -and also the SVM45 clamping knob modification that jvh has made.
I would imagine that the bushing must be custom machined.
Does the large knob modification serve any particular purpose or offer any advantage over the factory model?

Here is more information ==>

General Tormek Questions / Re: New Guy, Old Gear Snagged
« on: April 19, 2020, 05:19:43 am »
I replaced the drive shaft on my T2000, and the upgrade is certainly worthwhile.  I had to later replace the drive wheel as mine was cracked after 16 yrs of use. 

I don’t think you will go wrong with replacing these two.


Knife Sharpening / Re: Differential bevels
« on: April 19, 2020, 05:13:58 am »

I use this procedure to approximately center the knife in the jig and then I make fine adjustment with eccentric bushing.

Very rarely (really thick knives) is necessary to use a shim between the blade and the jig. Also it's possible to change protrusion length with adjustable stop to get the same angle on both sides of the knife when flipping the jig, but it's not very comfortable.

You can modify knife jigs according to Knife Grinder's methods but you get a dedicated solution for a specific knife thickness. I didn't go this way, so now I have four universal SVM-45 jigs and I can grind more knives on one wheel, then change to another and continue...


I’ve used the eccentric bushing approach.  Works well.


General Tormek Questions / Re: Serrated knife..
« on: April 16, 2020, 11:09:40 am »
Here is a video of how to do it.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: New Guy, Old Gear Snagged
« on: April 13, 2020, 03:43:37 am »

Here's what you have :

1. SVD-185 Turning Jig -- I'd keep this, but get the replacement SVD-186 or SVD-186R.  The SVD-186 is significantly better.  The base of the SVD-185 is great for sharpening carbide cutters like those used in hollowing tools.

2. This is part of the ADV-50D diamond truing tool.  It goes with the item you noted as :  "There is also another truing tool that I didn't get in the picture, but it is just the diamond piece on a piece of stock with a hole through it."   It was replaced by TT-50, and none too soon. 

3. That is an SVM-45 knife jig

4. That is an SVM-100 or SVM-140 long knife jig (The SVM-100 was replaced by SVM-140, but works fine)

5 & 15.  These are the SVX-150 scissors jig.

6. SVD-110 tool rest

7. SP-650 stone grader.  You should order a new one.

8. TT-50 truing tool

9. (honing compound)

10. SVA-170 axe jig

11. SVM-00 small knife jig

12. SVH-60 straight edge jig.  It was replaced by SE-77, but is worth keeping.  I use mine often for chisels that are short.

13 & 14.  SVS-50 multi jig

16. SVS-32 short tool jig.  It was replaced by SVS-38, but is worth keeping.

Good luck.

Kind regards,

General Tormek Questions / Re: 200mm on a 250/T8
« on: April 10, 2020, 03:46:32 am »

I performed the analysis on using a 250mm stone down to a useable minimum size (180mm).  That is in the attached chart.

As noted, that consumes 1,182 cm3 of grindstone.  Using a T4 stone from 200mm to 180mm provides for 239 cm3 of grindstone -- only 20%.  So, unless the T4 stone is <20% of the cost of the T8, it is cheaper to get a T8 stone.

There is more information about getting the most from your grindstones at:

Good luck.

General Tormek Questions / Re: a better spacer
« on: April 07, 2020, 04:26:52 am »

This goes where the grindstone is placed.  You use it when you need to transport the Tormek as they advise not transporting it with the grindstone attached.  There are a myriad of reasons, but the primary two are that
  • the shaft can get bent by the weight of the grindstone if the Tormek bounces around in your vehicle, and
  • the grindstone can get damaged (or even broken).

Putting this spacer on the shaft after the grindstone is removed keeps the shaft in the right position.

Note :  I made one with a scrap piece of wood on my lathe.  The outside diameter is not critical, and the inside can be drilled using a 12mm drill bit.  If you don’t have a 12mm drill bit, you can use a 1/2 inch one. 

The 12 mm bit is 0.472 inches, whilst the 1/2 inch is of course 0.500 inches (or 12.7 mm) — though these are approximations anyway, but that is a much longer discussion.  More importantly, that extra 0.03 inches / 0.7 mm doesn’t really matter for this purpose.  In fact, it may be a better option as, if the wood gets wet and swells up, it will still fit onto the shaft.

What does matter is protecting your machine.  This piece is really cheap vs. the potential for damaging your spindle.  A new shaft is about $65-70.  And a new 250mm grindstone is $190 for the SG, and more if you have to replace a different one.

Hope that helps.

Kind regards,


I compiled this regarding the sharpening and honing of wood carving tools.

I hope that helps.

Kind regards,

Wood Turning / Re: Best methods and wheel for sharpening bowl gouges
« on: March 30, 2020, 05:21:25 pm »
As long as we are spending other people's money, a set of the diamond wheels would be in order.


Well if it is other peoples money, and space, then a fresh T8 for each wheel would give the best comparison  8)

Now that’s just getting crazy ...

Wood Turning / Re: Best methods and wheel for sharpening bowl gouges
« on: March 29, 2020, 03:59:48 am »
If you are only sharpening high speed steel turning gouges and tools, then the SB250 would serve you well. If you sharpen other tools and knives and only want to buy one stone, you are better off with a new SG250. The SB250 clogs with softer steels.


... or, get both!


Here’s my recommendation:

SVH-60 - Square Edge Jig - Keep at least one.  I use mine periodically.

WM-100 - Angle Gauge - Probably best to upgrade to a WM-200 if you would use this type of device.

ADV-50D - Stone Truing Tool - Give this to a museum.  Buy a TT-50 quickly.

SVD-180 - Gouge Jig (Can easily be upgraded to a 185 but I don't have a lathe)  - If doing carving or turning, upgrade to the SVD-186.  Significant upgrade.

SVS-32 - Small Tool Jig  - Keep it.  The replacement is wider, but this one will work for most tools.

SP-650 - Stone Grader  - Keep it.

Kind regards,

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