Messages

376

General Tormek Questions / Re: Leather wheel problem - Peeling

« on: November 01, 2017, 12:15:16 am »

Sharpco,

We have had questions about the leather honing wheel for at least as long as I have been a forum member (2009) and probably since the forum started in 2003. Once in a while, a member says or does something which sheds light on the issue. Your question is one of those light shedding moments. If you really spend some time working with different amounts of compound with good notes, you can get us closer to a deeper understanding.

The Tormek is a versatile tool. It can serve basic sharpening needs with very little preparation. It is also capable of more in depth work in the hands of someone willing to put the effort in mastering it. You are one of those persons. As another such traveler, I know this path can be both frustrating and rewarding. Do not get discouraged. I have seen the frontiers of knowledge pushed back in the last few years. Both the Tormek and its users are evolving. Be part of the evolution.

Ken

I agree.

I saw a few people who disappointed Tormek and sold it. But they did not try to understand and master Tormek and did not participate in the forum.

I am glad to be able to participate in this forum.

Thank you.

377

General Tormek Questions / Re: Leather wheel problem - Peeling

« on: November 01, 2017, 12:07:01 am »

Thank you.

You're right. It seems to be caused by applying more PA-70 than necessary. However, even if a proper amount of compound is applied, it will eventually accumulate. If so, should I strip it off sometimes?

If you don't apply too much compound (or oil), the wheel will last a really long time without cleaning.  I've occasionally held a towel against mine to get some of the accumulated "black gunk" off, then add a bit of compound... but not much other than that.

Thank you for letting me know that even with the right amount of compound I sometimes need to strip it off.

378

General Tormek Questions / Re: Leather wheel problem - Peeling

« on: October 31, 2017, 01:03:32 pm »

Sharpco,

As I recall, you have two Tormeks. Yes? Having two Tormeks is the ideal way to work through problems like this. You will need some sharpening practice tools. My choice, as I have stated before, would be 3/4” (19mm) chisels. (I have a dozen of these. Three or four would be a good number. They are inexpensive. Stick with the Irwin brand, as described.) I know several of you prefer knives over chisels. Either way, you need some learning objects for practice.

You also need some quiet time when you are not sharpening for customers.

After you remove the excess compound on both wheels, try adding just a very small amount to one of the wheels. I like CB's toothbrush idea. Don't add any to the other wheel. Start polishing several of your practice tools. I would place simple labels on them marked "no added compound" and "added compound". Marker or ink on pieces of masking tape is fine. Do enough polishing repetitions to see the effect of not adding any compound.

I like this kind of learning because it strips away distractions. All you are looking for in this case is the effect of very little added honing compound compared with no added compound. That is how I prefer to learn, one specific skill as simplified as possible, without the distraction of having to sharpen a dozen customer knives. This might seem like wasted time, however, once you truly master each small skill, you will work more efficiently from that time forward.

Keep us posted about your progress.

Ken

Thank you, Ken.

You're right. I have two Tormeks. One is in the van, and the other is in my house. So I can put two Leather wheels in one place and do a comparison test.

Today, I stripped the compound from the leather wheel before starting work. And I did not apply any more compound to honing customers' knives. Surprisingly it worked fine.

I checked how sharp the edge was after polishing and when I felt it was not sharp enough I added very few compounds.

So far, I am satisfied. However, I should be careful not to apply more than necessary compounds.

379

General Tormek Questions / Re: Leather wheel problem - Peeling

« on: October 31, 2017, 03:52:05 am »

Thank you.

You're right. It seems to be caused by applying more PA-70 than necessary. However, even if a proper amount of compound is applied, it will eventually accumulate. If so, should I strip it off sometimes?

380

Knife Sharpening / Re: Maximize edge retention

« on: October 30, 2017, 01:02:30 pm »

You're right Ken.

I also believe that some abrasive material is better for managing the knife than regular honing steel.

But I think there is something wrong with the fact that the sharpness of the knife I sharpened with Tormek can only be maintained for a few days.

381

Knife Sharpening / Maximize edge retention

« on: October 30, 2017, 10:22:10 am »

What people want most about kitchen knives is edge retention. What do you think is a way to achieve this using Tormek?

There are two cases here.

1. Management by honing steel
2. Use without management

I'm sharpening to 30 degrees (15 + 15) with Tormek, but I couldn't hear that edge retention is good. Should I lower the angle?

382

General Tormek Questions / Leather wheel problem - Peeling

« on: October 30, 2017, 09:31:07 am »

After the compound is piled on the leather wheel, it's eventually peeled as shown in the picture. The peeled piece is like a bark. I usually sharpen the knife and apply a little pressure to the leather wheel. How can I avoid this problem?

383

Knife Sharpening / Re: Finishing with SJ-250

« on: October 30, 2017, 12:29:44 am »

wootz.

Thank you for your reply. I'm learning a lot from you.

384

Knife Sharpening / Re: Finishing with SJ-250

« on: October 29, 2017, 12:58:05 pm »

You must either be setting an angle on the SJ too steep, or overhoning the edge.
Try the following.

Having ground an edge on your  SG wheel, change to the SJ, and adjust the US height to the edge angle as accurately as you can, by whatever method you use.
Then LOWER the US by 1 digit.
This way you will spare the very edge apex from the impact.

Starting on the side with the burr from the SG, make just two alternating passes on the SJ - check sharpness to decide whether to continue or not - number of passes needed depends on the steel hardness.

Not to overwork the edge is crucial at this point.
If you can shave your forearm smoothly or even better get a hair violin sign, stop there as you hardly can refine the edge further by edge-leading honing on SJ.

I've just tried all that on an ATS-34 knife, and got an edge at 130-115 BESS that shaves, fillets paper and plays violin with a hair.

Wootz.

I'm using SJ-250 towards the edge. Does honing direction matter?

And Why should I pay attention to overwork?

Finally, what is mean 'hair violin sign'?

385

Knife Sharpening / Re: US400 Extended Universal support

« on: October 29, 2017, 02:33:56 am »

cbwx34.

What I have is like Ken has.

This is 100mm taller and 70mm wider than the standard bar.

386

Knife Sharpening / Re: US400 Extended Universal support

« on: October 28, 2017, 01:38:05 pm »

I'll take one.

Thank you.

387

General Tormek Questions / Rust on the inside of US

« on: October 28, 2017, 01:21:50 pm »

I have two T-8 and all with the same problem.

One was confirmed during use and the other was confirmed when it was new.

Does your US have the same problem?

388

Knife Sharpening / Re: US400 Extended Universal support

« on: October 28, 2017, 01:53:51 am »

Good information, Steve.

I want Tormek to produce higher and longer Universal support for Large cleaver knife or very long knife. It should be higher than US-400.

I have a higher universal support made elsewhere, but it is inconvenient because it has no threads.

389

Knife Sharpening / Need a finer compound for sharpening business?

« on: October 27, 2017, 11:09:20 am »

Do you think the PA-70 can't make a sharp enough edge for knife sharpening business?

I wonder why you chose a finer abrasive.(Chromium oxide, Diamond spray....)

390

General Tormek Questions / Re: Leather wheel in cold wheater

« on: October 27, 2017, 03:24:34 am »

Any issues/concerns about the water stone freezing (and possibly cracking)?

(It's mentioned as in issue in the Tormek FAQ).

I know that stone can be cracked in freezing temperatures. In this case, the stone must be stored in a warm place. However, I could not find any notes on the leather wheel in the manual. The cold will not cause permanent damage to the Leather wheel, but I believe it is necessary to warm it up to work properly.

If enough time is given, it will be possible with a car heater, but I would like to prepare for when it is not.