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Messages - cbwx34

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31
Knife Sharpening / Re: SVM-00
« on: November 05, 2021, 12:50:04 pm »
You might look at this thread....
Thanks for sending this link, but in my optinion shims are not good for the handling.
I will use them only as an exception.
At last also the guy in the video modified the SVM-45 by  shaping 0,5mm and 1,0mm away from the groundplate.
This is a systemtic mismatch. To grind the mounting bar to 2mm takes one problem away from me.

Part of that thread also talks about the thickness of the SVM-00.  There are a couple of other posts that address this...

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2577.msg15232#msg15232

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3126.msg17429#msg17429

... I think your measurement of the SVM-00 might be off? (or else Tormek makes them different now).

32
General Tormek Questions / Re: Lube Bearings or No?
« on: November 04, 2021, 02:46:54 pm »
I have a Supergrind 2005 and just installed the Stainless Steel Shaft.  I'm wondering if I should put some grease on the nylon bearings?

Yes... from the Tormek manual....

Quote
The main shaft runs in special nylon bearings. They are designed to have a radial play of
0.1–0.2 mm (0.004–0.008"). This has no influence on the running of the grinding wheel, as
the load is always downwards. The bearings are greased at the factory. We recommend that
you re-grease them every year or so. Use any type of “ball bearing grease”. Remove the
grinding wheel and pull out the main shaft with the honing wheel and apply grease on the
shaft and in the bearings

... (mine didn't seem to have any grease from the factory).

BTW, (if you haven't already),  if you go to the main Tormek website, tormek.com and register your machine, you can download the latest manual.

33
Knife Sharpening / Re: SVM-00
« on: November 04, 2021, 01:41:24 pm »
You might look at this thread....

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2962.0

34
Knife Sharpening / Re: A beginner's feedback.
« on: November 03, 2021, 04:37:29 pm »
Add an extension shaft for the leather wheel, similar to the one that comes with the LA-120, for more room?

Yes, but then the long USB would probably be barely sufficient for long knives ?

Then you find someting creative...


35
Knife Sharpening / Re: KnifeGrinders Software Question...
« on: November 03, 2021, 03:59:51 pm »
Hope I'm ok asking here...I'm attempting to use this software for my Supergrind 2005.  What is a good starting point for the Knife Jig stop to blade edge distance?  Any other tips on using this software would be appreciated.

Most use around 139mm for standard knives... not set in stone, but a good starting point, since it seems to fit most size knives (and I should add keeps it in the range of a decent USB height and its capability).

36
Knife Sharpening / Re: How much time to sharpen a high end knife?
« on: November 03, 2021, 03:24:49 pm »
I am not surprised by the salesperson's recommendation. It is in line with Tormek's long held philosophy. For most of the history of Tormek, they were a one grinding wheel does all company. This fit the high carbon steel tools in general use. Steels have changed, as have grinding wheels; however, the preference for a universal wheel still lingers. Notice in the online classes how whenever knives or chisels are sharpened the SG-250 is almost always chosen. There is good reason for this. Aluminium oxide is designed for high carbon steel. With the stone grader, the grit is variable. Unlike diamond wheels, the SG is very forgiving with rough treatment.

All of this being said, the SG-250 is not quite a universal wheel. It sharpens and hones well. It reshapes very slowly. The DF-250 is roughly equivalent in diamond. It leaves a good finish and cuts reasonably fast. The DC-250 removes metal more quickly, but does not leave as smooth finish. To do both functions efficiently, you really need two wheels.

Grind a few damaged knives, or put an initial bevel on one... I'll bet your surprise level will go up. ;)

Obviously, Tormek's "long held philosophy" doesn't really apply to the diamond wheels... as you stated, you need more than one to do the job.

(My "salesperson" comment was a bit tongue in cheek).  :P

37
Knife Sharpening / Re: A beginner's feedback.
« on: November 03, 2021, 03:16:49 pm »
...
- Could there be a way to have a wider T-8, maybe with additional sleeves and a wider body, to avoid the need to remove the stone for long knives ?
...

Add an extension shaft for the leather wheel, similar to the one that comes with the LA-120, for more room?

38
But isn't what you do with the T1-T2 in essence equivalent to what you'd do when pivoting the jig on a T7-T8 to stay on the laser line ?

If you lift, and/or (as I believe is explained in the advanced sharpening class) pivot backward on a T7-T8, then you're basically increasing the angle... Or said otherwise, shouldn't one expect to see a change in the width of the bevel at the tip when sharpening on a T1-T2 (or on any other constant-angle jig, for that matter), if the taper doesn't compensate for the curve ?

If I read your post correctly, again you are correct on both points… it's basically "pivoting", and the width of the bevel can change if the angle stays the same, typically on blades that have a noticeable taper from spine to edge, and/or heel to tip.  But most common kitchen knives don't have too much taper, so probably not too significant.  What's more important is to realize that it may take a bit longer to get the tip area sharp on the first sharpening.

As stated elsewhere, the goal of these sharpeners is to keep it simple, giving a decently sharp knife to someone who otherwise may not sharpen at all (or use something worse), and on a subset of knives - mainly standard kitchen knives.  Sharpeners who want more control should use the T-4, T-8, etc.  (I know you know this already… just pointing it out for those who may be looking at it).

39
Knife Sharpening / Re: How much time to sharpen a high end knife?
« on: November 02, 2021, 01:43:58 pm »
I am truly surprised on that recommendation for the Tormek diamond Fine (DF) for initial beveling and chip removal.  I found that even the coarse Tormek diamond (DC) was not aggressive enough, so when for some non-Tormek alternatives. 

Rick

It's what happens when you take advice from a salesperson ;)

But yeah, I agree, I've used the fine just to sharpen, and it isn't very fast.  I wouldn't recommend it for this either.

There's a lengthy thread on this topic....  "Diamond wheels vs grind stones"

40
Knife Sharpening / Re: Getting started for high alloy knife steels
« on: November 01, 2021, 07:36:06 pm »
Hello!
I just purchased a Tormek T8. I am upgrading from a KME sharpener. The kme was ok, but since I am a knife maker and use “high alloy” stainless steels at 60+RC, the kme often took 3-7 hours (!!!) to sharpen from no edge to acceptable sharpness.

My questions about the tormek are: is the SG-250 stone acceptable for steels such as AEB-L, CPM-154, and other chromium carbide and vanadium steels? Or should I skip that and buy the SB-250?
My other question is about the leather honing wheel. My thought was to buy a couple of them and load them with diamond pastes ranging from 2000 grit to 8000 grit or higher. Does that sound like a waste of time? With the kme I usually sharpen up to 1500 grit with a diamond stone, and then strop with diamond from 3000, all the way up to 100,000 for a mirror finish and roughly 140-ish BESS. Any help is greatly appreciated!

You could consider just setting the edge with the Tormek, and finish with the KME,… should cut the time considerably.

41
Knife Sharpening / Re: Troubleshooting First Time T8 Knife Sharpening
« on: October 28, 2021, 03:41:06 pm »
I am new Tormek user and have just finished setting a stock T-8, along with a Japanese Stone. I have also purchased the FVB, using the angle finding software from Knife Grinders (or will be) and have watched several videos on how to use the system.

I (currently) do not have a BESS tester, however I may look at getting one sooner than later, just to help quantify how I'm doing with mastering the system.

I have sharpened a mid-quality set of knives using, at least what I think, is a good protocol. For the first round, I did not have the FVB, so I honed freehand. The results will carve paper with no problems, and the wife is happy with what I have done. I suspect that I can do much, much better and I want to learn how to get the as sharp as possible with the setup that I have.

I have a cheap 40x digital microscope and have a few pictures that I would like to see if anyone can help me troubleshoot and make better. In looking at them, my first thought is I did not spend enough time with the course wheel to remove all the nicks. Does that sound reasonable.

Does anyone have pictures of a knife that was done with a similar system, just to help me understand what is possible?

Thanks

If the "wife is happy" you're doing fine. ;)

I'm not sure what "nicks" you're referring to, if you mean the grind marks, i don't think it's a problem.  It looks like you honed the very edge a little more than the rest of the bevel, but that is often the method done to remove the burr.  My only thought in looking at your pics, is you could lower the angle a bit?  (Hard to tell for sure without more details, just looks like a relative narrow bevel).  I think mostly you just need practice.  Practice different angles, different finish levels (for example, you might find a knife sharpened on the stock wheel will work better in the kitchen vs. one polished on the SJ wheel), different deburring techniques, etc..   As your experience grows, you'll see the improvements in actual use.


42
Knife Sharpening / Can wood cut better than steel...
« on: October 27, 2021, 12:31:37 am »

43
I might be completely wrong, but I thought one of Tormek's main recommendations to get a "nice, even bevel" was to raise the handle away from the stone. How do you do that with a T-1 ? Granted, with the Nakiri shown in the video, it is a non-issue. But with standard chef knives ?

You're correct, and it's probably why "To Pivot or Not to Pivot" is one of the more popular threads. ;)

I'm in the "pivot" camp, so I don't see an issue with the T-1, instead, I think it would be nice for Tormek to come up with a pivot solution for the original machines.  (But as the other thread shows, there are ways to do it).

44
I am very close buying my an T8. I am a beginner. There are so many wheel options. I am leaning towards the basic set up. Then I can ad more later. Or should I start out with a diamond wheel?

My vote:  unless you have a specific need... start with the standard wheel. 

45
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finding knife angle
« on: October 24, 2021, 12:30:03 am »
Hello, new to the forum and to knife sharpening. Just got a Tormek T8 and want to venture out into the world of being a knife sharpener. My problem is I have searched everywhere and I am not able to find how to determine a knife blade angle. I have tried the maker approach it works ok. Is there a gauge, tool,formula something I can use to help know what a random knife blade angle is ?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

I'll give you an alternative answer.... don't worry about what angle is on the blade, but instead, decide what angle you want to put on it.

Most knives don't come with optimum angles, many are sharpened at different angles on each side, etc.

Starting out sharpening, you might stick to some basics.   For example 15-18 deg. for a kitchen knife, 20 deg. for an EDC, etc.  Get a few "beater" knives to practice on, and see how it works for you.

For setting that angle, there's a few alternatives, for example the links in my signature.  (My other advice, don't use Tormek's Anglemaster to set the angle on a knife).

You'll find it's about as easy to reset a knife to a desired angle, vs. just sharpening it at the angle it's at, (and dealing with the aforementioned issues).

So, anyway, don't worry about what angle's on the knife, but what you would like it to be.

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