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Knife Sharpening / Clamp Placement
« Last post by Gary@QSS on Yesterday at 04:59:03 pm »
Here are three photos that illustrate clamp placement. They go counter to the general adage of always clamping the front edge of the clamp parallel with the straight edge of the blade. The photos are from Tormek's Instagram page.
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Have to agree with Ken's post free'ish'hand sharpening with the Tormek is an essential skill and because it's a slow wheel actually pretty easy to achieve without much risk of chewing away a lot of expensive metal.

I often just use the guide bar set somewhere close even for bowl gouges (especially those that have been used so much they don't really fit the jigs anymore)

Negative rake scrapers are so easy to freehand just marker pen the end, move the guide bar so you get a comfortable standing position to the correct angle on the wheel, and touch the scraper to the wheel often to maintain the burr so much easier than setting it in a jig if you are doing it regularly you soon learn and it is literally a single pass of the blade on the wheel to maintain, rather than re-profiling which is when I would reach for the jig.

In woodturning time sharpening is non productive time, keep it short by doing it often.
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General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 water spillage
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 09:53:10 am »
If you look at the bottom of your T4, you will see many holes. This not only helps dissipate heat, it also allows any water to drain out.

Before stainless steel shafts were introduced in 2006, rust could be a problem with Tormeks.While improper care was not the only possible cause, many users, including members of this forum,unknowingly left their grinding wheels in their water filled troughs instead of draining and cleaning the troughs between sharpening sessions. Also, I suspect that many Tormek users have been negligent about regular cleaning and regreasing of the shaft and bushings as recommended in the handbook.
Stainless steel shafts and non rusting housings have been major improvements. Good housekeeping- keeping the grinding wheel dry and water trough clean between, as well as regular cleaning and regreasing are still essential.

With only routine care, your T4 should continue working flawlessly long past the seven year warranty.

Ken
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ORW,

Your comparison of sharpening the curved negative rake scraper with the Stanley 40 roughing plane is quite applicable. In both cases, we seem to have forgotten some useful ancient knowledge. Over the years we have become so fascinated with jigs. Sometimes the best and only practical way to shape and sharpen a tool is freehand.

I once watched a Tormek demonstrator fumble with trying to sharpen a small woodturning cut off tool. The tool was too small to fit in the prescribed jig. All he needed to do was rest the tool against the universal support bar and sharpen. The operation would have taken less time to do than to write this post.

I wish I could locate a video (movie) of Torgny Jansson using the original Tormek before all of the jigs were introduced. Do not misunderstand me. I like using the jigs whenever practical. Recreating the same sharp profile with minimal steel removal is the intelligent way to sharpen. I just think a well trained Tormek sharpener should also develop freehand skills.

Ken

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 I had a experience on shaping and sharpening a convex curved surface, it may help....or not. I had a Stanley No. 40 plane using a 3 inch radius for the cutting edge. Since the previous sharpening distorted the geometry I reverted to my roots and with a fine sharpie laid out radial lines to maintain perpendicularity to the grinding surface and that allowed me to free-hand the iron and recreate a smooth arc using the SVD-110. Even though a french curve is not created the same way the principle still applies. 
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Wood Turning / Re: BGM-100 not on a wheel grinder
« Last post by OneRogueWave on Yesterday at 03:43:13 am »
au contraire Gord, I've not given up yet on trying to use the Viel S-5 IF it's practical but asking the group did solicit great responses as yours was very enlightening. I do find some grinding operations on the Tormek tedious and inefficient but like a swiss army knife the tormek does alot, just not all great. I did burn my BGM-100 idea on a felt/paper wheel machine ala Wootz and his great research. Sorry all for the late reply but as with life, I've been buried and some things fall to the back....way back burner.
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General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 water spillage
« Last post by troflog on July 21, 2019, 05:28:03 pm »
Good to hear. But generally, is it bad to get water spillage on to off the housing. This happends when I sharpen knives, and it is difficult to avoid. Can the water go through between the metal top and plast body?
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General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 water spillage
« Last post by Ken S on July 21, 2019, 05:23:02 pm »
You may be overfilling the water trough. I fill it only to the point where water starts to flow over the top of the grinding wheel. The wheel will quickly absorb some of this. With the motor still running, I continue to add a little water, each time stopping when the water just begins to flow over top of the wheel. Stop adding water when absorption stops. I do not use the fill level line.

Placing a small towel under your T4 (including the outboard area for long knives) will contain the remaining water. The Tormek is a hearty machine and designed to function as a wet grinder. The T4 is especially designed for this challenge with a stainless steel shaft and a non rusting housing. Your Tormek will survive; do not lose hope.

Ken
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General Tormek Questions / Re: ACC-150 alternative
« Last post by troflog on July 21, 2019, 04:11:13 pm »
Thank you:)
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General Tormek Questions / T4 water spillage
« Last post by troflog on July 21, 2019, 03:49:45 pm »
Hello
New with Tormek. I have sharpened some knives with my new T4. Find it almost impossible to avaoid water spillage at the top of the T4. In the beginning I was not very worried, thinking that the Tormek is design for that. But have started to grow worried that it is wrong,and now I try to wipe of water all the time. Should I still be worried?. What will happend if water come inside the housing?
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