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1
Hello,
I'm a second-day owner of a Tormek T4 Bushmater edition with the angle setter and the SVM45 knife sharpening jig. I'm primarily interested in sharpening popular commercial folding knives with 3-4" blades using AUS-8 to D2 steel. Also some larger fixed bushcraft type knives and a few axes and hatchets. I have some nicer Spyderco, ZT, Kershaw, Benchmade, Esse, OKC and also a couple artisan knives.

It was a good idea to start with some inexpensive beater knives! But so far everything is going very well except I do not feel comfortable using the Angle Setting device to set the distance between blade edge and tool rest because I really can not reliably get the face of the angle piece to rest on the narrow edge bevel of the knife.

What I have done is experiment with marker on the bevel and made an educated guess that most of my knives are between 35 to 40 degrees inclusive. And then use the coarser set of the stone to true up the bevel.

I have an illuminated magnified work light and can place it so I can see where the knife and stone meet, and I've made some guesses and checked myself that way as well.

And while I haven't found perfection yet, or gotten anything super sharp, I have been measuring and noting the distance between tool rest and blade edge in case I want to replicate.

Is this the way it's done? I haven't seen anything in the documentation that is better, nor on YouTube, but it feels a little janky to me, like I'm not really sure. I wish I could just figure out how long a distance I need to put a specific degree inclusive on all of my knives (mostly).

I've looked around the threads and have an inkling that someone develop a phone app for this and there are some other analog methods to figure this out... I'd sure appreciate a link to where the actual techniques are as opposed to the tangential (pun) discussions.

Otherwise the actual grinding is fun. I find honing the knives a little awkward because I have to come at it at an angle to avoid the spinning stone but I'll adapt.

Thank you, Viva Sweden! (I live in the town of Sweden in New York state so I'm Swedish too.)

Welcome to the forum.

In my experience, matching the bevel that is on the knife, (or close to) is a good way to learn.  You will soon get an idea with a bit of practice, where the settings should be approximately.  Using the "marker method" is a good way to do it, with a bit of practice, it will become less "fussy" than what you're seeing now.

Rich Colvin's "Sharpening Calculator" is a good way to see if you want to use a calculator to set the angle... and also a good way to know what angle you're actually sharpening at.

There is also a booklet written by forum member Dutchman found HERE... that contains a chart that can be used to set angles.

A couple of points from your post...

You mention problems using the "Angle Setting" device (AngleMaster)... putting it on the "narrow edge bevel".  You can use the side of the knife to set the angle.  The diagrams and description on p. 54-55 of the manual show the difference.  (You do have to account for any taper in the blade from spine to edge though... I can expand on this if needed).

Although your idea of recording your measurements for future reference may be a good one... keep in mind that as the stone wears, these measurments will change (and it's not a direct correlation).  Rich's (and other) calculators adjust for this automatically (since the "true" angle is being set).

In summary, I would try Rich's calculator.  Your wheel should be 200mm... the only measurement you'll need is the "Projection Length" (distance between the blade edge and the Stop Collar on the jig) in mm.  Type in the desired angle (dps), and set the Universal Support height from the answer.  I would still mark the bevel with a marker, and make sure things are lining up appropriately.  If it's way off, I'd  double check before turning on the power.
2
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finally made a "Homemade Knife Rest" I used...
« Last post by Ken S on Today at 12:26:44 pm »
Good thought, SADW.

In fact, yesterday I replied to an email from "the Tormek guru" at Affinity Tool, the US importer, on this subject. His email and my reply also went to Wolfgang at Advanced Machinery and Stig. (advmachinery.com handles most of the Tormek parts orders in the US.)

I explained how we were using the jig from the T2 as a small platform with both the T2 and other Tormek models. I can understand how the idea might not occur to Tormek. I have thought about different ways to built small platform jigs for several years, and it did not occur to me until CB posted it. It really is thinking outside the box, the box being the original function of the Tormek engineers.

Ideally, I would like to see the T2 jig modified into a stand alone Tormek product. Tormek has already done most of the CAD work. It could work on any Tormek, including the T2. Like the DWC-200 coarse diamond wheel, it would be an optional accessory.

Yes, SADW, let's spread the word!

Ken
3
Hi Frankly,
Production folders factory edge is 35-40 degrees, but is not the best in sense of performance and keenness you can put on it.

Both Aus-8 and D2 steel folders perform better at 12 dps (24 degrees included), harder alloys can be ground at 10 dps.
Unfortunately the design of short 3-4" blade folders not always allows to set that low angle with the knife jig.
I'd try if I can, and if not will grind at 30 degrees included.

For folding knives you need better precision of setting the angle, use one of the methods described in this thread
https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2969.30

True the wheel thoroughly to have its surface flat and parallel with the US.
First sharpen a couple of junk folders to develop muscle memory.
When it comes to real sharpening, protect the handle with cling film and tape, and protect the clamping site with a cloth tape.

We are experts in sharpening high-end folders, don't hesitate to ask when you stumble upon some problem, you will and many times, believe me
4
Hello,
I'm a second-day owner of a Tormek T4 Bushmater edition with the angle setter and the SVM45 knife sharpening jig. I'm primarily interested in sharpening popular commercial folding knives with 3-4" blades using AUS-8 to D2 steel. Also some larger fixed bushcraft type knives and a few axes and hatchets. I have some nicer Spyderco, ZT, Kershaw, Benchmade, Esse, OKC and also a couple artisan knives.

It was a good idea to start with some inexpensive beater knives! But so far everything is going very well except I do not feel comfortable using the Angle Setting device to set the distance between blade edge and tool rest because I really can not reliably get the face of the angle piece to rest on the narrow edge bevel of the knife.

What I have done is experiment with marker on the bevel and made an educated guess that most of my knives are between 35 to 40 degrees inclusive. And then use the coarser set of the stone to true up the bevel.

I have an illuminated magnified work light and can place it so I can see where the knife and stone meet, and I've made some guesses and checked myself that way as well.

And while I haven't found perfection yet, or gotten anything super sharp, I have been measuring and noting the distance between tool rest and blade edge in case I want to replicate.

Is this the way it's done? I haven't seen anything in the documentation that is better, nor on YouTube, but it feels a little janky to me, like I'm not really sure. I wish I could just figure out how long a distance I need to put a specific degree inclusive on all of my knives (mostly).

I've looked around the threads and have an inkling that someone develop a phone app for this and there are some other analog methods to figure this out... I'd sure appreciate a link to where the actual techniques are as opposed to the tangential (pun) discussions.

Otherwise the actual grinding is fun. I find honing the knives a little awkward because I have to come at it at an angle to avoid the spinning stone but I'll adapt.

Thank you, Viva Sweden! (I live in the town of Sweden in New York state so I'm Swedish too.)
5
Maybe if a few members email expressing some interest...

Advanced Machinery Email  ;)

I bet it wouldn't hurt to CC support at Tormek.  (they need to know there is a want/need as well.
6
General Tormek Questions / Re: SB Stone Flat Spot
« Last post by RickKrung on Today at 04:34:36 am »
Thanks.  I will contact Tormek support, once I've gathered a little more information (Pssst...  Did you hear the one about the engineer, the biologist and the lawyer?... ).

I want to true the SB stone again to get rid of the groove and try working with the knife again.  And probably some other knives and other types of things.  I would like to see it develop another problem area.  The two that have shown up were not in the same place on the wheel and do not seem to have come from the same type of use/abuse. 

To that end, I retrued the stone today, in a couple increments, due to time limitations. 

First, here is the knife I was working with when the groove appeared.





To begin, I took a picture of the groove showing wear marks leading in (top) and exiting (bottom) the groove.  Second photo is of the stone diameter measurement: 1245.53mm prior to the first truing.  Please make note of the small nick in the corner of the stone, just below the groove on the near side.  It will be a reference point in what follows. 





After the first truing, the groove was nearly all gone, but I could still detect it as a faint white or shiny line angling from lower right to upper left, beginning just above the nick, right in the middle of the frame.  Stone diameter at this point was 245.32mm, so just over 0.2mm had been removed. 





Second truing eliminated detectable (to me at least) signs of the groove.  The reference nick is barely visible on the left side, middle of the frame.  Stone diameter is now 245.15mm, almost 0.4mm smaller from the beginning diameter. 





I have not tested the trued wheel to see what happens next, I've run out of photo capacity for this post. 

One takeaway is that truing doesn't have to take much off the diameter of the stone.  The truing done here to get rid of the groove was extreme.  The stone was true after the first truing, when only about 0.2mm had been removed from the diameter, which amounts to an actual 0.1mm depth of cut of the truing tool. 

If I have done as many as ten truings in the 5-6 mos. I've had the stone, I'd be surprised.  That could account for 1-2mm of diameter lost, plus the just under 0.5mm today.  Since the stone is 5mm smaller than when new, about half the stone diameter loss may have been due to wear during grinding. 

Does that seem reasonable, from a general use perspective?  I do not have a clue.  Does it speak to a faster than expected wearing, as if it were defective in that manner?  Probably only support can answer that very well, thinking they would have studied this previously. 

Rick
7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Matching grinding wheels of different diameter
« Last post by cbwx34 on Today at 12:10:08 am »
There are two approaches for setting grinding angle in the standard Universal Support position of grinding into the wheel:

The first originates from Ton Nillesen trigonometry for Tormek, and sets grinding angle by distance from the Universal Support bar to the grinding wheel, a free online calculator is available thanks to Rich Colvin: http://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexCalcProj.html
Kenjig also works on this principle.

The second is Knife Grinders' by vertical distance from the Universal Support bar to the Tormek housing: Computer Software >>
and more here: https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3501.msg22214#msg22214


Fun with Cadd!

 8)
8
Knife Sharpening / Re: USB Height Setting Using Wootz's Applet
« Last post by cbwx34 on Today at 12:05:39 am »
Just a brainfart: could a pipecutter work to make very shallow cuts around the steel shaft, just deep enough to mark it ?

I'm sure it could... my problem is seeing the dang numbers.  >:(

The "ruler" works well (better than the tape)... I made a reference mark on the USB itself, in case I need to replace it.  In my case, I found it could only be about 10mm wide (or it won't fit), off to the side a bit (the hole in the casing is oblong so there's room there, plus it is out of the way of the locking screw), and I just put it on with double stick tape.

So far, working well! ;)
9
Knife Sharpening / Re: USB Height Setting Using Wootz's Applet
« Last post by kwakster on Yesterday at 11:24:49 pm »
Just a brainfart: could a pipecutter work to make very shallow cuts around the steel shaft, just deep enough to mark it ?
10
Knife Sharpening / Re: USB Height Setting Using Wootz's Applet
« Last post by cbwx34 on Yesterday at 09:35:21 pm »
The Universal Support positioning in the vertical sleeves keeps returning to my thoughts, and my thoughts keep returning to a scale on the Universal Support similar to what you've just described,...



 ;)
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