Recent Posts

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General Tormek Questions / Primary Bevel Only Strategy
« Last post by Regdop on Today at 07:07:56 am »
Guys, just bought my first Tormek. a T8. I’ve watched all the videos and have an idea of sharpening using only a 25° primary bevel.. and that’s all... ok. What happens when that edge goes blunt... do I have to do it all over again?     Surely a 30° secondary touch up bevel is more efficient? Please help me to understand the theory / strategy of single bevel only... cheers Gary!
General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Nickclick on Today at 05:05:26 am »
Thanks very much, you have sold me on buying a new t4 instead of an old t8. Thanks for all the time you put in your answers. I hope to be back soon with more questions once I get the t4. :D thanks
General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Ken S on Today at 02:28:19 am »
Good questions, Nick, which deserve honest answers. I originally purchased my Tormek to sharpen chisels and plane blades. They are still my favorite tools to sharpen.

I flatten my chisel backs differently than the orthodox Tormek technique. I start with a fine grit waterstone, diamond stone or glass and sandpaper. Rub the back on the flat area. If you see the abrasive rubbing in the middle of the back (and not the ends), you have a "belly". If this chisel with a belly is new, I suggest returning it. A belly is a lot of work to remove. I flattened a nice old Buck chisel with a belly once. The chisel has a nice feel in my hand.

I do rough flattening with the SG grinding wheel graded coarse. I freehand this by grinding the middle of the blade along the edge of the grinding wheel. You can check progress by rubbing sgainst the flat stone. I just try for rough, approximate flatness with the Tormek. I do final flattening and polishing with flat stones or abrasives.

Most new chisels have a concave back, the opposite of a belly. With them, all you need to do is flatten enough to make both ends coplaner and polished.

The ideal solution is to use premium chisels like Lie-Nielsen or Veritas which leave the factory flat.

The ideal number of chisels is the smallest number which will do what you need. (Fewer edges to maintain)

For plane blade backs, do an online search for "David Charlesworth ruler trick".

Steel for chisels and plane blades is usually high carbon or A2. These fall within the range of the SG. Keep it graded coarse initially. When you switch to the fine grading, make the last few passes with very light pressure. Learn to use the leather honng wheel. Usinng the chisel still in the jig and resetting the Anglemaster for the bevel and a flat polishing stone to remove the burr from the back will get you up to speed quickly.

You don't need diamond or Japanese wheels for these tools. The T4 has plenty of powerfor this work.

Keep thinking!

General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Nickclick on Yesterday at 08:16:28 pm »
Thanks for the in-depth responses Ken, they help a lot. Last few questions lol, I use a lot of chisels and plane irons for my woodworking, could I use the side of the normal tormek stone to flatten them or will it ruin it? Also, since I need the edge to be very sharp, should I buy the Japanese water stone or is it not a big difference. Then, I see the kitchen version of the tormek, I think the t-2, has a small diamond stone, would that fit. And should I go normal stone, jap stone or diamond for best results?
General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 06:21:21 pm »
Good question. The alleged motor restriction was due to overheating with the T3. The T3’s all plastic housing retained the heat, sometimes causing the housing to melt. The problem was not the motor itself.

Tormek corrected the situation with the redesigned T4. The formerly plastic top of the housing with the machined cast zinc top. The zinc top acts as a radiator and eliminates the overheating problem. The zinc machining also makes the alignment much more precise. Tormek later incorporated this same zinc housing design into the T8.

Theoretically the T4 motor is "fifty percent duty". From a practical viewpoint, the operator will need a rest long before the T4. Incidentally, I had a very direct conversation about the T4 and its motor with a Tormek rep and a rep from Tormek's US importer. I asked them point blank what would happen if a T4 owner burned out the motor six and a half years into the seven year warranty. The point blank answer was that Tormek would send me a postage paid shipping label; Tormek would do whatever was necessary to restore the Tormek; and, it would be promptly returned to me. After that I have had no concern about my T4 and its motor.

Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek T2 and DWC/SJ-200
« Last post by on Yesterday at 06:03:51 pm »
Before you venture into the exotic steel arena I would practice as Ken suggests and digest this pdf or the complete book. You really need to know what steel a knife is made of in order to apply the proper technique to obtain a truly sharp edge. I also suggest browsing around the site. There is an excellent section on the process they follow.

Another excellent reference on sharpening is provided here:

General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Nickclick on Yesterday at 05:02:49 pm »
Thanks for the replies, are there any drawbacks to the t-4? I think I have seen somewhere that because of the motor downgrade, you can only sharpen things for a shortened amount of time. Is this right?
General Tormek Questions / Re: Note to self......
« Last post by Yardbird on Yesterday at 03:51:13 pm »
Well, it's nice to know I am not the only one! Thanx to all for your replies!
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek T2 and DWC/SJ-200
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 02:16:50 pm »
as soon as my problems will be solved by Tormek's support, I'd like to discuss with you about the convenience of buying and using other wheels, like DWC and SJ on this machine.
They would be intended for only kitchen knives and house scissors use.
Would it make sense or standard wheels can already give a good result?
I'm not looking for perfection, but for a good result without spending too much time on every piece.
Thanks a lot as always.

Back to your original post:

The T2 is only designed for sharpening knives. One of the reasons I recommend the T4 instead is that it can be used to sharpen scissors.

Regarding kitchen knives and your concern about the hardest steels, I don't know. In my limited experience sharpening my own kitchen knives, the SG wheel has always handled both my top of the line Henckels from long ago and my more recent inexpensive knives. The priority with kitchen knife steel seems to be rust prevention rather than hardness. I would start with the SG wheel. Unless you are a very experienced sharpener, I would stay away from sharpening expensive exotic steel knives at first.

General Tormek Questions / Re: Used tormek machines
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 01:58:55 pm »

My first Tormek purchase would be the Tormek itself. With the Bushcraft T4, you can use the included knife jig to sharpen almost all of your knives, all but thin long knives. Chef's knives are no problem with the regular jig.

If this is beyond your immediate budget, save until it is reasonable.

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