Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Wood Turning / Large Roughing Gouge
« Last post by Tamworthturner on Today at 05:30:36 pm »

I have a large roughing gouge 1 3/4" so too large for the SVS-50 Multi Jig.

Has anyone got any tips for sharpening it on the Tormek or any shop made jigs that would help?

Thanks in advance.
Wonderful setup.  Being able to zip across to the finer grit with little or no adjustment is brilliant. 
I do less precise sharpening with a little guesswork, using a SG and SJ combo:  rough grind on the SG, flip the USB and raise the adjustment dial about a turn to compensate for the difference in stone diameter.
This has killed my ability to use the leather honing wheel, which I miss using for the purpose of reviving an old edge before resigning to putting it back to the stones in a jig.
I used the LA-120 shaft for the second stone.  I still have problems with eccentricity from the mating surfaces somewhere.  Teflon tape on the threads helped reduce it a lot.
I cover the drive wheel and not-stainless motor shaft with a cowl made from a round aluminum baking tin--it's not pretty, but is deeper than the honing wheel and extends over the Tormek body some to act as a roof.
I'd like to know what other aftermarket shafts options there are.
Knife Sharpening / Re: Chip removal
« Last post by wallydouglas on Today at 09:11:02 am »
Thanks for the advice guys
I will go with the greater angle and see how I go
I am fighting a similar issue, but suspect that the cause is different.

I think you can check for square like this:
- true the wheel
- lower the universal support to the wheel and use it as a ruler to draw a line across your stone. It should be square
-clamp a ruler in se-77 so that it's against the edge
- make sure butt of the ruler follows the line you had drawn. Adjust as necessary

Wood Turning / Nick Agar CW-220 composite honing wheel video
« Last post by Ken S on Today at 01:28:15 am »
I regard Nick Agar highly. Here is a short video he did on the new CW-220 composite wheel:


Two wheels works well with Tormek’s USB-430 extended universal support bar. Just loosen it, flip it around, and tighten it down. No need to adjust the height setting for the second wheel (assuming both are the same diameter, of course).

However, a double-sided USB works even better. Then there is no need to loosen, flip around, and tighten.

Great thread, what is the part # for the double sided universal support and where did get it?


Such a setup with both wheels in water baths can save money, space, time, and electricity.
General Tormek Questions / Re: rock hard felt wheel
« Last post by WagonHo! on Yesterday at 06:33:16 pm »
Knife grinders have the double taper wheels in stock, received notification last night and promptly placed order. Sure would like one of those $$$ Kangaroo strops. Interesting reading had no idea what a guarded resource they are.

Does using the Tormek Diamond Wheel Coarse give good results without water?
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: hand plane blade: getting to the 90
« Last post by 90066 on Yesterday at 01:52:23 am »
Thanks for the encouragement!

So, I think I made progress. I think that it's a combination of things over time that all need to come together to produce the nice angle of 90.
1. I learned that after grading the stone cuts very fast (it makes sense, there is a video about it. just have to remember). I learned that, in general, the thing seems to cut faster than i thought it should which would keep changing my angle. So now I check more often as I am figuring things out.
2. I learned about grading :)
3. I learned about plane iron sides (they may not be straight. at the tip mine wasn't)

And so my last discovery, which I think moved everything in the right direction: people do say to push on universal support when tightening. I did do it, but somewhere in the middle of my journey I think I saw something that said to push in the middle (between two vertical tubes) which is a mistake. Pushing on the one with the micro-adjust made a pretty significant difference.

Now I have a not-quite-90 blade. In fact, I have an iron that's kind of "wavy". The encouraging part here is that it's not a consistent skew.

My current thought is that what I need to figure out is uniform grinding - since you tend to grind the middle more than the edges, there is some dialing in of how you move the bevel over the stone. I think this, too, is mentioned either in printed manual, in the video, or both.

So far I think I've eliminated 

 and what was throwing me off at last: when tightening universal support
General Tormek Questions / Re: Angles and process for T8, felt wheel
« Last post by sharpening_by_jesse on January 15, 2021, 11:20:29 pm »
Thank you Rick!

Yes, I'm reading the KG edge de-burring book. Thanks for the info- from the reading and the extensive SEM images in the KB book, it seems the diamond wheel is the better method for grinding carbides as opposed to the steel matrix itself. Unfortunately the diamond process above is a little out of my current budget.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10