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General Tormek Questions / Re: T4 honing wheel size
« Last post by Edwe on Today at 05:24:09 pm »
I did some eyeballing measuring today and it looks like a 10" wheel would fit om a T4 :)

I am concerned that your beginner's enthusiasm will be your undoing with the Tormek. With your military memory loss, I believe the most effective angle setting technique for you is using a Sharpie marker. This is proven, simple and direct. It is also in regular use by many sharpening experts.

You can learn to become proficient in sharpening. By stripping down set up to the most basic level, you can focus on the actual grinding. With practice, like all of us, you will become proficient.

Please do not misunderstand me. These setting programs are marvelous. In my opinion, they have advanced sharpening even further than even Tormek thought was possible. However, beginners forget that our members who have designed these programs have decades of math experience as well as years of sharpening experience.

Michael, I urge you to forget about all of these advanced programs and concentrate on basic sharpening.

Hi Ken. Would you happen to have the link for the bevel angle calculator link?

Michael, in my thinking, the best available calculator is TormekCalc which was recently upgraded to TormekCalc2.

TormekCalc2 programmed by JVH is a professionally made Excel spreadsheet which offers all what a Tormeker may need and even more. It is sophisticated script supplemented with perfect explanatory drawings.

It is here:


Here is a link to my original source which provided the math for my kenjig.

If you google "kenjig instructions"  you will find the illustrated pdf I wrote for the forum.

Ken and Michael, that link refers to an unusable file with cut pages.
Moreover, it is not the original source that is updated if desired.
Please look at the links in my signature below
It's a peculiarly male trait isn't it?  We go into a "shop".  Doesn't matter if it's fishing kit or a chandlery for boating related stuff, a decent knife shop or indeed woodturning.  The fact is we of the male species seem to have a near primal urge to consume vast quantities of shiny things :-)

We (I know I do) frequently then post rationalise the purchase on some flimsy pretext that we might "grow into it over time" and have genuine need for whatever the esoteric function is :-)

It's usually either money or my wife that bring me back to reality in this flirtation with the "devil of temptation".

I made that mistake with a Harley Davidson heritage Softail Classic in 1999 and I still have her sat in my garage to this day.....with a staggering 2.6K miles on the clock!!!  (I bow my head in shame) :-)
Wood Turning / Re: bowl gouges sharpening - "other shapes" graph
« Last post by Ken S on Today at 03:45:02 am »

I agree with your preference of having the SVD-186 being secured in the support bar. I will try it!


For the many years that I worked in my home photo darkroom, I wrestled with whether or not I should gear up to be able to make 16x20” prints. Surprisingly, logic carried the day and I never made the investment in bigger prints. The business side would never have supported prints that large. Also, artistically, I have always preferred smaller prints, 8x10” or (usually) smaller. You set a wise example by setting up your turning tools and grinding wheels for your actual real world needs.

Such wisdom is rare in someone your age.  :)

Ken (aka "the old guy")

I replaced my SB-250 with another one.  I looked at the diamond wheels, and here’s what I determined:

But, I must add that I’m thinking about moving to the new Turner’s Edge gouges from Robust.  And, if this is indeed the case :

To make Turner’s Edge gouges, we start with premium high-speed steel (M2).  After machining, the tools are heat treated to 64 Rockwell C.  The hardened tools then go through the Nitriding process, increasing cutting edge hardness to 1880 Vickers (75+ Rockwell C).

I may have to move to diamond wheels to sharpen those tools.  That is a pretty hard steel!

Kind regards,

Very interesting.  I didn't actually read that thread before I made my decision but I guess I've pretty much arrived at the same conclusion with a lot less research :-)  My only use of Tungsten category hardness is for very small bits that attach to deep hollowing tools and I sharpen those on a linisher style sharpening system which works really well.  I also haven't explored the Norton wheels at all and my guess is they would be a lot less pricey.  I've upgraded to a CBN wheel on an Oregon compound angle chainsaw sharpener I bought last year because the turning club I'm with often harvest our own wood.  Whats really nice is not having to dress and not having to adjust because wheels dont change shape.  On balance, I also shape with the linisher as I long ago recognised the Tormek's real forte is in sharpening not shaping.  Feeds n speeds springs to mind!  So I guess the reality is I just have no pressing need for diamond on either a shaping level or M2 or carbide level.  But you never know.....I might :-)

I’d love to get feedback on them.

Kind regards
Wood Turning / Re: bowl gouges sharpening - "other shapes" graph
« Last post by Rob on Yesterday at 09:21:47 pm »
Interesting thread.

There is another perspective on roughing gouges that can "go round corners" which I guess is one of the purposes of grinding the wings back.  There is a health and safety issue because they're never meant to be used on face grain work (ie bowls) but strictly only on spindle, between centre work.  The reason is the metal is tanged into the handle rather than solid stock so is relatively weak.  it's considered highly dangerous to be used against the potentially massive catches you can get from a bowl.  The only reason I even mention this is because I think the moment you grind the wings of any gouge back, it immediately makes it tempting to use it on face grain work.  Now, I appreciate that we're not actually talking about grinding the wings off specifically with this jig setting recipe.  I just thought it worth mentioning that's all.

The positive benefit to having a wide tool like a roughing gouge with smooth wings is of course you can go round corners …….but on spindle blanks.  But if you're putting gentle curves into big stuff like a table lamp or similar, the big gouge is a great tool to go trundling in and out of curves because it removes a lot of stock and is easy to guide.
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