Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: SE-77 and bench planes
« Last post by Ken S on Today at 03:26:17 am »
Roy,

I had to google Robert Larson honing guide. Mine is the ancestor, the Eclipse jig, formerly made in Great Britain. There are many of the design now; the patent must have expired. I can't imagine Tormek following the pack, even though the idea is a good one. The present Cadillac of this design is made by Lie-Nielsen.

What you might do is cut off the bottom of the Larson style jig and attach it to a SE-77. This is one of those times when I wish I had a home machinist shop and the skill to use it.

Yes, your idea would be quite a jig!

Ken
2
Knife Sharpening / Re: SVM-45 optimal blade thickness?
« Last post by Lape on Today at 02:37:40 am »
Hello again.

According to my recent measurements the jigs center is aligned with blades exactly 2 millimeter thick.
Hmm?
3
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: SE-77 and bench planes
« Last post by turbettr on Today at 02:05:08 am »
Ken -

I used the Wolverine adapter to rough out some old plane blades today on my 80 grit CBN wheel and the jig was spot on.  However, my diamond wheel on the other side was slightly out of square and I can see where the SE-77 will help.  Perhaps instead of (or in addition to) reference lines Tomek could come up with a jig that incorporates the design of the Robert Larson 800-1800 honing guide that automatically centers the blade.  Self centering with the SE-77 adjustment knobs would be perfect.

Roy
4
Knife Sharpening / Re: "Laser Guided" Sharpening...
« Last post by cbwx34 on Yesterday at 09:40:43 pm »
Congrats cbwx, it seems you have come up with the laser guided setup as first. My flat platform with laser pointer is only some two years old.  :)

Jan

Congrats to you... yours is certainly better planned and implemented than what I cobbled together.  Inspiring for sure.
5
Knife Sharpening / Re: "Laser Guided" Sharpening...
« Last post by Jan on Yesterday at 09:37:38 pm »
Congrats cbwx, it seems you have come up with the laser guided setup as first. My flat platform with laser pointer is only some two years old.  :)

Jan
6
Knife Sharpening / "Laser Guided" Sharpening...
« Last post by cbwx34 on Yesterday at 09:05:26 pm »
So, while I continue with the “Quick & Easy” Jig setup, :)  I thought I’d share a method that I’ve had better luck with. 

A few years back, I came up with a “laser guided” setup for a set of paper sharpening wheels, that worked well.  I tried it on the Tormek, and while initially it didn’t work so well, once I figured out to mark the wheel and use that to set the guide, it came together.  Here’s an older picture…



So, I thought it cool to see that some in this forum had come up something similar, for example Jan in this thread…

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2562.45

… who came up with a pretty elaborate setup…



… (certainly more elaborate than mine).  :o

So, if you’re not familiar, basically you set the angle by setting the laser line to the matching angle on the wheel, then holding the blade level, (held freehand in my case, it appears Jan uses a platform on his)… you sharpen at that specific point on the wheel, which sets the bevel (or grinding) angle.



You get a pretty accurate way of sharpening at a specific angle, and is way more accurate (for me anyway) than trying to “best guess” a spot on the stone, or pick a reference point (for example a point on the case)… especially for repeated passes.  (This never worked well for me).

The angles are marked on the wheel from the top in 5˚ or 10˚ increments (your choice).  (Every .436in. or 10.90mm is 5˚ on a 250mm or 10in. stone, if my math is right).

I might eventually come up with a better bracket, but this is quick and easy, and works well, with items I had around the house, or easy to get at the local hardware store (although I may shorten the clamp a bit to get it out of the way).

(BTW, while the laser goes across both wheels, it would have to be reset on the leather wheel if needed… the angles don’t correspond).

Definitely a quick and easy way to establish a specific angle, and with a bit of practice is pretty precise. (And no jigs/clamps to fuss with).

Chopstick bonus:  In addition to using it as a reference to set the wheel, (described earlier here)..

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3323.0

… if you take two chopsticks and stick them in the stone’s pivot hole, it makes it easy to line up and mark the stone from the angle marks measured earlier, (at every 5˚ or 10˚), to the center of the hole.  :)


 8)
7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Quickly Setting the Angle when using the Knife Jig(s)
« Last post by cbwx34 on Yesterday at 08:55:06 pm »
Some two years ago I have posted about my flat platform prototype. For blades of the same thickness you set the bevel angle only once. You can sharpen in both directions. https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2562.135

It works fine, but currently for some reasons I prefer to sharpen using the knife jig guided by the USB. For angle setting I use the kenjig concept.

Jan

I saw that... (and in fact was just writing a post related to that).  ;)
8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Quickly Setting the Angle when using the Knife Jig(s)
« Last post by Jan on Yesterday at 08:43:26 pm »
Some two years ago I have posted about my flat platform prototype. For blades of the same thickness you set the bevel angle only once. You can sharpen in both directions. https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=2562.135

It works fine, but currently for some reasons I prefer to sharpen using the knife jig guided by the USB. For angle setting I use the kenjig concept.

Jan
9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Quickly Setting the Angle when using the Knife Jig(s)
« Last post by cbwx34 on Yesterday at 02:00:22 pm »
The distance 29.3 mm is measured from the shaft central line to the base of the T7 housing. Wootz uses the name “constant vertical” for it.

It is a pity that Wootz script disappeared from the thread. Let me know if you are interested in it and I will try to find a copy.

Jan

Thanks for the additional info. (I don’t think I can use the script).

I have found studying past posts an invaluable source of information. Wootz is very innovative, and also does a very good job of discovering and evaluating things. In his posts he discusses variations on the universal support, including Robin Bailey's extended supportand Tormek's US 400, designed for the Tormek 4000, a specialized machine (now out of production, and predecessor of the T2). I have found Robin Bailey's support useful and plan to purchase a US400. I have heard that Tormek plans to make a limited production run of them.

My main frustration with the forum format (all forums) is that some valuable information is ephemeral, and quickly disappears into the past. I have made printed copies of some posts; I wish I had done this more extensively.

Ken

I’m interested in the US400... please keep me posted.  (I think the one from Bailey is no longer available).

Definitely a lot of good info in previous threads!
10
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: SE-77 and bench planes
« Last post by Ken S on Yesterday at 01:33:49 pm »
Ray,

Welcome to the forum. No, you are not missing anything; you have noticed a problem with the SE-77. Where the centering line is located would be a perfect place for a centering millimeter scale. This can be done using a separate rule, but, that seems primitive. In my opinion, the next version of the square edge jig should incorporate a more useful centering scale.

The following is strictly my opinion, with no insider knowledge. There have always been some issues with getting the grinding square with chisels. The possible causes of this are varied. The grinding wheel needs to be accurately trued with the TT-50. The chisel needs to be accurately inserted in the jig. The sides of the chisel itself need to be parallel.

The SE-76 added a square registration fence. In theory, this should have solved the problem. In truth, the Tormek is quite capable of oroducing outstandingly sharp chisels, however, some skill and mindful care is necessary. Here we get into the realm of the black marker, a small square (which must actually be square), and varying finger pressure. This is not as complicated as it sounds.

When Tormek introduced and marketed the SE-77, the cambering feature seemed second place to being able to square chisels. I disagree with this. I think the controlled cambering feature is outstanding, and long overdue. As a woodworker, I would purchase the SE-77 just for the cambering. This cambering feature needs a centering scale to be truly convenient. Yes, we could mark our own jigs, however, we should not have to do this.

Ken
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10