Author Topic: Trouble duplicating grind on a Glaser gouge  (Read 5514 times)

Offline pc_bill

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Trouble duplicating grind on a Glaser gouge
« on: August 19, 2005, 11:18:41 pm »
I am trying to sharpen a bowl gouge from Jerry Glaser, duplicating his grind and having trouble. His grind is similar to David Ellsworth’s except the gouge bar is thicker and there is less of a wing.

I confirm the angle by using a sharpie pen, turning the stone by hand and adjusting the tool support in or out till the full black mark is removed.

At this point I start to sharpen, in the center of the gouge the full widthof the metal is grinding, when your turn to the sides (wings) metal is only being removed upper edge, around the first 1/8" or so. I have confirmed this using the sharpie marker. The stone is true and flat.

I can snap a picture and post if that would help.

Bill

Offline kaptain_zero

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Re:Trouble duplicating grind on a Glaser gouge
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2005, 03:13:34 am »
Hi Bill, I'm no expert on the subject but I'm going to guess the solution is the same as with the other bowl gouge jigs that I have used.

You need to color the nose and the wing bevels with your sharpie, then set the side bevel or wing on the stone and adjust the tool rest in or out until the side of the gouge is grinding correctly.

Now put the nose on the stone and then adjust the jig angle to get  the nose portion to grind correctly.  At this point you'll need to go back and check the first setting again as the jig angle setting and tool rest setting interact with each other. Fine tune the tool rest distance for the wing and go back and double check the jig angle.

Of course there is one more variable and that is the protrusion of the gouge in the jig and there I would stick with the 65mm or about 2.5" as recomended by Tormek.

Hope this helps....

Chris

Offline Jeff Farris

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Re:Trouble duplicating grind on a Glaser gouge
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2005, 03:41:04 am »
kaptain zero is pretty much right on target. The adjustment that you need to work on is the angle of the knuckle. I am out of the office, so I can't verify this, but I think that if it is too much on the edge (at the sides), you have the angle of the knuckle too high (4 or 5?). Take it down a half an index mark and check it with a full paint job on the bevel.  Remember that when you change the jig knuckle setting it will change the primary bevel angle (the one in the middle of the gouge that you had set just right before).

Also, different jig systems work slightly differently and it may not be possible to exactly reproduce the factory grind. Get it close and then record your settings and do it the same way from now on.
Jeff Farris

Offline pc_bill

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Re:Trouble duplicating grind on a Glaser gouge
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2005, 02:49:12 am »
I was to the understanding that adjustment on the jig controlled how far back of the wing was ground. That’s not my problem. I’ll work on getting a picture to better show what I have.

Bill