In the Shop > Wood Turning

BGM-100 not on a wheel grinder

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OneRogueWave:
  Hey there all, I shaped and sharpened some gouges on my T8. The rouging in was done on a borrowed belt sander attachment on a bench grinder, it used a odd set-up but had the SVD-180 clamp. That really helped out on set-up, grind on belt sander, go to stone and with multiple tools and with my SVD-185 in rotation, sped up the process. Has anyone successfully set up a BGM-100 on a belt sander? I run a Veil S-5, 1x42 and I just don't have the room for yet another machine, I'd rather make this work. I've already looked at the .pdf on the BGM, all the info is based on wheels, maybe use the TTS-100 and reverse engineer the geometry?

best regards, Kevin

Ken S:
Welcome to the forum, Kevin.

Your idea should certainly work. I have a Viel S5. It's a nice, versatile machine. I have not used mine with the BGM-100, however, it seems just a matter of placing the BGM-100 so that the gouge edge aligns with the platen.

This must be a two part reply. I will go to my shop (just downstairs in the basement) after I return from driving my grandchildren to school. I will take a good look at my Viel and my (bought for future experimenting) BGM-100.

Incidentally, the two holes in the TTS-100 setting tool are just for setting the two Distances (between the universal support bar and the grinding wheel) on which Tormek bases its gouge settings. I will measure those two distances. You can make very simple one piece wooden gage blocks to set the Distance to your 1x42 belt. This will allow you to use the full program of of your SVD-185.

Of the top of my head (caveat: not tested) I think all the Tormek jigs should work with this setup.

I will get back to you later this morning.

Ken

RichColvin:
Kevin,

I use the BGM-100 on my bench grinder, primarily for two purposes:

* to do the initial shaping on tools (HSS & Carbide), and
* to provide an improved platform for general grinding (i.e., using the SVD-110 Tool Rest)
This works finely, but I use my Tormek grinder for sharpening as I have much greater control on steel removal, & I don’t like heating up the tool. 

* For high speed steel, heat isn’t a huge issue, but I find that woodturning makes the tool hot anyway (especially hard, dry woods), & it's nice to cool the tool down !
* For high carbon steels (some old spindle gouges my grandfather gave me), heat can be a real issue for metal tempering, so I avoid it.
* For carbide tools (e.g., cemented carbide inserts), heat isn’t a real issue, but quenching the tool very much is.  It can lead to cracks and make the edge significantly more prone to deformation.  (I also had one instance where the heat caused the cement to fail, forcing me to re-attach the carbide to the tool.  That tool was out of commission for a few days for repair.)

For me, sharpening is something I want to be fast & effective.  I like to attach the jig, quickly sharpen, then get back to what I’m trying to do.  The Tormek grinder makes that happen, & I’ll bet you soon end up finding space for one.

Good luck with the BGM.  It is a great addition.

Rich

Ken S:
Kevin,

This is looking promising. I looked at my Viel. I think the BGM-100 can be mounted on the Viel's grinding table. It will need to be mounted somewhat off center. Some clearance with the table would be good. It needs a flat piece between the table and the BGM-100. I happen to have baltic birch plywood in stock. That is where I would start, however, use what you have-wood or metal. Using the grinding table means that the BGM-100 is easily removable. a spare table is readily available from Viel or sparpeningmadeeasy.com.

Be sure to check your pm (private messages) tab later today.

Ken

Ken

OneRogueWave:
  Thanks for the reply, I'll be looking at my inbox. I have a motor with a bad start capacitor so it's a manual start BUT I choose the direction it goes!

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