John,
Welcome to the forum. I am in a similar situation to yours. In my case, I have been sharpening woodworking bench chisels for many years, but am very new at woodturning. Comparing carving and turning, each has benefits and constraints. The edge of a turning tool roughing a single billet from square to round probably meets more wood than a carving tool will in many decades. Carving tools are made of carbon steel to have a very keen edge under light duty. Turning tools are generally high speed steel for edge durability, albeit at a slight diminishing in keenness.
On the other hand, turning tools are generally larger, which fits "handbook sharpening" more easily with the Tormek. Fortunately, the Tormek is versatile enough that the handbook is the starting point, not the end point. Here is an example:
I inherited most of my turning tools from my grandfather. They are 1930s vintage carbon steel. I also have several odd newer hss tools, including a one inch wide straight skew. Eventually I want to purchase an Alan Lacer skew, a large skew with a combination straight (90°) edge about a third of the way across and the rest of the edge radiused. This combined grind is not mentioned in the handbook. I reshaped the skew by placing the support bar very close to the grinding wheel and using it to support the skew being presented to the grinding wheel at a right angle. I ground the bevels using the Torlock platform jig in the reverse orientation, also very workable but not handbook. The bevels were good enough to impress Rob, our resident UK advanced turner.
My point with this is that we are not limited to handbook techniques. The Tormek is capable of a lot more with skill hands and imagination. Rich's use of the SE-77 is clever. I assume you already have the original SVH-60 square edge jig. It may also fulfill your needs. I will verify this later today. I believe you can set the jig for the bevel angle you want. If you remove the clamp parts and scribe 70° lines on the top with a black marker, you will have guiding marks. Work slowly and carefully; you have a very small amount of steel to remove. Grade your wheel fine.
I'll post again after I have a chance to try this.
I am glad you are posting; beginning turners like me can use "old turning hand" guidance.
Ken