In the Shop > General Tormek Questions

First chisel sharpening.

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sharps:
Despite buying my used Tormek 2000 a couple of weeks ago I resisted the temptation to play with it until I had finished my workshop. Now it is firmly bolted down on a steel pedestal I found locally, so I soaked the wheel and proceeded to true the wheel. There was 245mm left on the wheel, but it needed nearly 1mm taken off to flatten it, but the t50 tool did a good job.
I found a bunch of old rusty chisels (not my fault, I rescued them from a skip), wire-wooled one and set it in the jig, then used the angle finder to set it at 25°.I used the grading stone to coarsen the wheel up and proceeded to grind away. The chisel's edge had a large chip in it, probably over 1/2mm, so I understand there was a lot of metal to take away, but I was surprised how long it took. I re-dressed the stone with the block every ten minutes, but it took me over half an hour before I was ready to polish it with the fine wheel. Is this normal? Should I be using the grading block more often, or applying a llttle more pressure to speed things up? I was pleased with the result, the chisel is now shaving sharp, though when I looked at the edge under my microscope I noticed tiny imperfections, which I realise are caused by the rust-pitting in the steel, no matter, it's just for practice.
I probably shouldn't have tried such a badly damaged tool, but need reassuring I'm doing things right.I certainly wouldn't have wanted to put that on a bench stone!

john.jcb:
In my opinion a very badly damaged tool should be repaired on a low speed belt grinder if you are looking to speed up the process. Your other alternative is to buy a coarser wheel for the Tormek. I believe our moderator Ken has tried alternate stones and perhaps he can add his thoughts.

I recently repaired a chisel and like you it took some time.

sharps:
Thanks, I couldn't see I was doing anything wrong, nice to know that sort of time is normal. I've got a crappy bench grinder which I could use to take off most of the metal, but I don't trust myself to keep the edge cool, certainly wouldn't try it on my knives.
I didn't see it with my eye but the chisel is also a smidgeon off square. Not enough to worry about, at least for me. I notice the new straight edge jigs have micro adjustment knobs, mine just clamps the tool.

RichColvin:
Richard,

I bought a BGM-100 (https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/accessories/other-accessories/bgm-100-bench-grinder-mounting-set/ ) so I could use my traditional grinder for gross shaping / metal removal.  Works well as the standard Tormek jigs can be used for that, & then sharpen on the Tormek machine.

I also found that the course diamond wheel makes light work of this.  But that’s a much different cost than the BGM-100.

Kind regards,
Rich

sharps:
That tool looks the business, but I'm going to have to make do at the moment, and I'm thinking once I've restored everything around the place perhaps I won't need too much grinding. After you mentioned the diamond wheel I realised I would probably been better off with my 8x3 coarse diamond stone and honing guide, but that doesn't teach me the Tormek. To be honest I'm itching to get on with my knives, but I'll do another chisel first, I have a 1 1/2" Marples with only surface rust and minor edge knicks. Hopefully that will be 100% square- the first attempt was a half inch chisel, and I've read narrower chisels are harder to square- hence the micro-adjust knobs on the new jig?

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